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Thanks for measuring. I use cheap hat with an optical and coax digital output on a Raspberry Pi 3B. That should keep the noise down a bit.

Subwoofers have settings for frequency range and relative volume. It works fine. The stereo output gets the full range.

If you turn it off it uses less energy, most AVR have a little powersupply so that the remote power-on works and then pull a relay for the main transformer. Masterswitches work fine older AVR's had a supercap to keep the settings when complety powered off. I used one for all my AV stuff because...

Yes I used some multicleaner (Loctite 8201) the potmeter seemed closed but it is quiet again. Also found a can of philips contactspray from the seventies in my parents house. The knob has red LEDs behind it, if you can´t see them pull it a little bit forward.

I'm still wondering what kind of cable is on the other side of the power outlet. Standard Romex?

Speaker makes noises when turning the knob, bit the same as an amp from the seventies with cheap rotating resistor. I will try cleaning it.

The volume control knob of the A8 is now noisy. :(

Replaced the powersupply of the Raspberry pi with a newer phone charger. Did improve coax issues a bit but still dropouts then put the powersupply of the Aiyima A8 in a powerstrip with netfilter (24 euro) https://www.amazon.de/-/nl/dp/B000NI80OW Together this works.

When powering the D50s from a powerbank the coax issue remains. Tried an other coax source, with the coax output from the IOTAVX NP3 (cd-player/dab/streamer) it keeps working. So it might be the coax output from the raspberry pi. I'll try a new powersupply for that then.

It is just a yellow/green wire between the chassis earth next to the phono input and the earth of the powerstrip you might not need it. I used a crimp on spade connector on one side and a 3-prong grounding plug on the other with only the earth connected. There is probably some code somewhere...

I shorted the output of a Marantz PM5004 once and the volume knob went automatically down to zero. That one was around 200 euro but never tested it with 2 Ohm.

My Topping D50s has coax issues now, it worked flawlessly before but when I turn on the amplifier it loses it's signal (unlock). The optical, BT and USB input all work fine. The raspberry pi which feeds it (hifi berry clone) works oke. Conclusion so far is that it doesn't like the power supply...

For less money you can get an online UPS like AEG Protect 1000/2000/3000 which creates a reasonable sinus but now idea how these measure.

The Aiyima A8 has the same case but only a volume knob in the middle.

I made a switchbox from a sturdy 2-way 4-pole switch and stuff I had laying around to compare two amplifiers on one set of speakers. Both are fed from the same source. The class A/B amplifier which I really like can play louder but for desktop use (60 dB according to the dB app on the phone) the...

Scanspeak sells drivers in different price classes, the do have neodymium magnet woofers and Beryllium tweeters the do differ in retail price. Shipping cost per container are up, some vendors are complaining.

With my ear on the tweeter (pictured on the left) I hear a very soft hissing noise it goes up a tiny bit when maxed out. Way less than some powered monitors.

I still like old school Genesis stuff and mostly the keyboard things by Tony Banks. Youtube has some gems

I got an A8 today, partly because the A/B amplifier is running pretty hot in the summer and partly just curiosity. I paired it with a Topping D50s because that was laying around so far no complaints except wires and not enough space in the desk with no easy switching between amplifiers...

Same in the Netherlands, maybe depending if they are into hifi a bit from Danish origin, the hifiklubben stores sell it. I got a DAB+ tuner from the argonaudio site, reasonably priced (€110) and works fine no audible difference (to me) from the one in the Iotavx NP3