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On the other hand, why would you re-design a board if you don't have to? It's obvious how similar the requirements are. I think there'd be more coordination/management needed the more parts you have to source and keep in stock. Point is, it's obvious these two amps are nearly the identical save...

well if ChatGPT said it, it must be true :-)

meaning could the difference between these two amps just be that voltage regulation difference and mounting the TPA3255 chip on the bottom of the PCB with the added alum plate for heat transfer to the case? Note the 3255 version can use a power supply up to 48 volts as per the manual...

The TPA3244 board looks exactly the same as the TPA3255 board, I mean the power supply parts. I wonder if they used all the same parts and just used a couple different resistores to change the LM317G regulator's output? That would save mfg costs I think. Make any sense that they would do this...

Those are marked "SS16F" 60V Schottky Diodes ?

Here are some new pics where you can read the chip labels. SS16F (60V Schottky Diodes?) XL7005A (DC/DC converters?) LM317G Voltage regulator: https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm317.pdf

I'll see if I can take some more pics...

I know only the very basics on circuitry, how can I identify the voltage regulator(s)? Are they they chips in between the large capacitors in my <teardown pics>?

Thanks, where did you see this? I prefer a laptop style (sealed) PS because I live on the beach and humid climate... everything rusts really quick here. So sounds like I could use the Aiyima 32v then.

So I've been using the TPA3244 version of the BRU5 for over a year and have been happy with it sitting behind my TV always on... I've been using a 19v 3A laptop PS but looking now to upgrade it for more power to see if it improves the sound quality. I saw in the TI spec's for the TPA3244 power...

thanks might check that out after putting an heat sink on the power chip, even if it's not needed couldn't hurt to keep the chip running cooler.

Hawthorne Audio Silver Iris (coaxial tweeter - horn driver type).

Got my BRU5 now (TPA3244) only $27 on AliExpress. Haven't yet done any detailed listening to it. Just played it via Bluetooth so far. Sounds smoother or less bright than my other cheap dual-TPA3116d2 AIO but oddly doesn't have as much max volume ability. Currently using a 19V 3A PS - an old...

did you buy/import this? pls see DM, thanks.

That sucks, well should be an easy fix if you're a solder slinger? Paying someone else to repair it would prob cost more than the device itself. "Had to play with it patiently to even get it to work because the Bluetooth kept interfering" BT interfering with what? My tpa3244 BRU5 took only...

+1 I feel the same about this. Anyway, your amp, and more so your speakers and your room is gonna make a bigger difference.

No not my device. I just ordered the BRU5 TPA3244 version, waiting for arrival. I don't need the extra power of the tpa3255.

see below. Btw, wow that looks like a very cheap and prob low quality volume pot. Would it be easy to replace or bypass altogether? What other mod's could be worth trying?

Maybe so, it depends. The ask is a bit easier if using TPA3116 or MA12070 chips (used in other O-Noorus amps) which are powerful enough for my use/speakers. The AL200 is 4-5 times more expensive and certainly overkill power-wise for my 96db/1w speakers. And will it sound 4X better?

this isn't self amplified which i want, and it's twice the price of most of the O-Noorus devices. I get that there are better sounding choices out there.