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I had the previous model, the 7000. Loved that player until I got the dreaded C13:00 error. I would hesitate to buy another.

https://rel.net/blogs/learn-and-explore/tube-not-tube?srsltid=AfmBOorPhDxadlSuokPzYy9PH7NEgAIC8j9-lRTt-wj-qmkBzSW1MFje

I'll bet it sounds fucking great. That's probably why. Shouldn't you be measuring something?

Monolith is $1500 new? No. Nice, but... Bryston at $500! Send it in for a checkup, even if you have to pay. Pocket the change and forget about amplifiers until you die. https://www.stereophile.com/content/bryston-4b-power-amplifier-measurements

Yep. Just asking about the blurb. Dawn of new tech from way back. These amps were pretty expensive - $700ish for 50w of class AB with SMPS from 2001. I get all tingly just thinking about watching it go up in smoke when I play with it.

Curiosity is getting the better of me. Since I'm always shopping for that next amplifier, I'm torn between a Fosi or just grabbing this. Here's the blurb. Turns out the quote with which I started this thread was from a review of their much higher-powered 2.1 amp, but the power supply methodology...

Thanks - Obviously I'm not an EE but I like to at least have an understanding.

I ran across a Stewart PA-100B class A/B power amp in a pawn shop. Seems to have a build date of around 2000/2001. In searching for information, I found a PDF describing the amp, which is equipped with a SMPS supplying Darlington circuits (I think). They say this: "More than anything else...

Excellent. And cats, too!

It's a SIX channel amp, three stereo modules in one chassis. You are passively bi-amping, meaning you might have more power "potential" this way or that - but it all squeezes through a passive crossover that levels off power relative to the drivers' requirements. No matter what you do for more...

The great thing about PA speakers (high sensitivity) is that you can pull EQ like crazy to get an ideal house curve and have plenty of headroom left. The key is to pull down your EQ, no boost. One of the industry's favorite old-school EQ models was from the old UREI company - cut only. In any...

Whatever front end you use, it'll need to be quiet. The slightest hiss or noise will creep out. Good voltage up front and adjustable gain on the amps will help. You won't need more than 10-20 watts max so drive the line hard and damp the gain to keep noise at bay.

It depends if one says wires improve "experience" or "performance." Far left = any wire will do, and only one run per speaker. I know that's all it takes. Shut up. Middle = Well constructed, no nonsense, intentionally seeks out good, consistent quality based on objective needs with some...

I routinely kill the fan and adjust the temp to keep the HVAC silent when I have the opportunity to listen. Then the only noise I have to deal with is tinnitus.

5.2 up, 5.1 down.

I have the same situation - furniture is deeper than the speaker. My wife insists all speakers are to live pushed as far back as possible. Only when listening / watching are they to be brought out to where I feel they perform best. Luckily, I don't measure. Ignorance is bliss, and since...

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DATS-V3-Computer-Based-Audio-Component-Test-System-390-807?quantity=1

I'd do the Haflers. Hand over both in case parts are needed - strip one to help the other. I like that series of Athena speakers, by the way. The floor standers can get a little hooty from panel resonances, but overall, very good.

Speaker repair businesses should have test equipment to measure driver parameters. They can detect voice coil rub and can compare drivers against each other to ensure they are operating identically. If you can't find such a resource, Parts Express sells speaker evaluation products and software...