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Those inputs do exactly what you described, but it doesn't matter either way. You won't hear a difference that isn't just in your head.

I'm not sure if you know this, but all Delta-Sigma DACs use a resistor-ladder technique. They do so at a lower resolution, usually between 2-6 bits, and then shape the signal afterward to resemble the original signal's resolution via filtration techniques. This is done extremely accurately...

You are missing a part of the picture. Yes, everything IS in frequency response, however, there is a big problem; our measurements are not detailed enough to work with to actually account for everything. We can't even get accurate measurements above 10 khz. Not only that, but we don't know...

Generally all true. I suggested the Minifuse 1 because it didn't seem like they needed extra inputs, but if they might in the future, Minifuse 2 is the way. NT1 is my go-to because I do lots of EQ, but honestly, AT2035 is a great mic as well. I don't think they need a new one, I must've misread...

HE400SE, without question. Beyers almost always have terrible tuning, cost more, and their cable isn't even removable.

For the mic, Rode NT1. That thing is actually flawless. As for the interface, Arturia Minifuse 1. Costs 100 USD, sounds just as good as anything else when recording, has all the features you'd need.

Sound quality wise you won't get much of a difference. Buy a DAC for features, unless it's heavily distorted somehow you won't hear a difference.

No need to worry, EQ fixes it, as I said. Unless you're listening on Vinyl or something, pretty much every source you'll use can have system-wide EQ with no downsides. iOS I'm not sure, but Android can use Poweramp Equalizer, and Windows is obviously Equalizer APO. Seal isn't too important with...

I have an Ananda, it's my daily driver. I admittedly think it needs a sub-bass shelf at around 75 hz, but that could be preference. The bass is very thin without it. It also needs a peak at around 1600 hz, there's this weird dip in the frequency response that makes it sound weirdly hollow...

No, because there's no ADC in the world that can capture more than around 21 bits of audio. The noise created from the cosmic background radiation affecting the actual circuitry is around -123 dB or so, and 24 bits goes down to about -144. To be frank, though, 16 bit audio encompasses the...

I can make that statement for the same reason I can say that "human beings can't see ultraviolet light." No, I'm sorry, your hearing does not exceed that of a human's ability to hear things, same as it doesn't have the ability to see gamma rays. Are you saying I shouldn't say you can't hear...

Have you considered the fact that it's because it's very likely, and as a result they spread false information around that results in less knowledgeable people spending heaps of money on things that don't actually make a difference? It's misinformation and it actively hurts people and their...

Would you hear a difference? The rolloff happens at frequencies above the human hearing range.

Why the Jotunheim 2 over a Magnius? Its single-ended performance is just as bad as the Magnius if not worse, it measures worse and uses more power, and costs twice as much. If you're using an external DAC anyway, there's no reason to throw away your cash on something that offers you no benefit.

Keep in mind, anything above 16 bit, 44.1 khz audio is pointless, and actually sometimes sounds worse in the case of higher sample rate, if your audio system can reproduce the higher-than-20 khz frequencies in the first place. I'd recommend manually converting to 16/44.1 khz with dither.

Appears to be a little less than 23 ohms. Really damn high for some reason. Best not to use low-impedance headphones with it.

Interesting, Julian Kraus did some measurements on the headphone outs of a bunch of interfaces, and his measured much much better than yours did: You can see the Motu M2 at the bottom there. I've been using it as an amp for my Ananda, and between that and my Topping D90, I can... kiiiind of...

Yep, it is a good headphone out. So long as the headphones are sensitive and no higher than 300 ohm, it works very well. My Ananda are 25 ohm and 103 SPL/mW, so... No issues there.

This was purchased by me from Monoprice in July. The original packaging is included, and it is in near-mint condition, no marks of any kind. The amp works perfectly. I am selling it because I have no need for it anymore, my Anandas are powered perfectly fine with my MOTU M2 interface. Images of...

There isn't much of an advantage having one in general unless the place you're listening in has very faulty or old wiring. You could also just get a UPS and achieve the same effect. But in the case of this, since it goes into a switcher, it is doing literally nothing.