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Repeatable observation.

Glad you got that off of your chest.

I'm guessing it would have to be a pair of powered speakers with one of them acting as bluetooth receiver and then a tethered connection to the other speaker.

Seems like a equalizer between your DAC and integrated amp would fix your brightness problem.

I'm guessing the big red plastic X is the cause of the bad sound. :) Yea, I see a ton of these battery powered bluetooth speakers, (most with leds) in all of the stores.

First post advertisements ?

Make sure it is safe on all plastic. The WD40 mentions to test it on plastics, so do not use it.

There is a reason 90% of my gear is 20+ years old. Why pay for no audible improvement ?

Maybe he is related to Rob Watts and has super human hearing. :)

Cool project ! I used to have a Nixie-tube voltmeter and a frequency counter that I purchased at a garage sale when I was a teenager. Got a decade or so of use before they started to fail. I always liked the forward/backward movement of the numbers.

Page 174 of the Denon AVR 3400H manual mentions the ability to adjust input level +-12db to match the devices output. Maybe that will help.

These Dayton Audio 6.5" 2 way are really great speakers and will save you lots of money. Surprising good low end. I have been driving 2 pairs hard for over 6 years along with a 10" powered Dayton Audio sub-woofer and many guests have said it is the best sounding outdoor system they have ever...

You just described my DIY speakers I built about 5 years ago. I'm way ahead of the curve. (yea sure) Mine are ugly though, OSB with black textured speaker paint.

These are made for professional studios, not some trust fund, internet pseudo-nerds mother's basement.

I wasn't sure about his technical prowess, but that backwards baseball cap soon convinced me.

"We believe the M66 represents the pinnacle of what is technically achievable today," says Cas Oostvogel, product manager, NAD Electronics. It has reached the pinnacle, no need for specs.

Make some measurements using your DMM to check input/output voltages.The LM377T is the TI version and the LM377SP is the ST Microelectronics equivalent. You have a best case scenario with a working version to compare. Here's the pinout:

Same here. The "Help me pick a new DAC" threads do grow old as well as the "You must buy Genelec and use room correction to fix your problems". Christ, it makes me wonder how any stereo before Genelec and room correction every managed to sound good, which they did. Do I have to spend > $10k to...

Or the 3 knobs do nothing and rely on your brain to do the real work. :)

Buy a low profile powered sub and a can of white paint.