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Audio from PC - budget $500, very newbie

LightninBoy

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In this case, for $500, I would go with the passive Infinity R152 ($130/pr), the Yamaha RS202bl for $150, and a $100 DAC, probably the $110 Qudelix5k so I pick up ability for PEQ without fighting for it on the PC.

I'm in the active camp, but if the OP preferred passive, this would be a nice system.
 

Nozza

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Personally i'd go for passive speakers and a used amplifier. You can pick up bargain amps on ebay that will keep running perfectly well for many more years. I found a Cambridge Audio unit going cheap local to me and it's nice. You get the flexibility of upgrading either part later if you need to.

For the source: you might find the current sound out of your computer to be good enough as it is. Mine was noisy so I got the SMSL M100 MkII DAC which solved the noise issue completely and of course offer a good quality audio output.
 

vnmslsrbms

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I would go PC>USB DAC (good low budget on like Schiit ones)>Amplifier>Speakers
That way it's easier for you to upgrade certain parts. Also you can have headphone out on the schiit chain, and get headphones too.
I have the LSX, and I don't really like the sound sitting on a desk as a nearfield monitor. They sound much better in a living room, outperforming their size. But if you can find a used pair, just hook up the optical out to the LSX. Though, again recommend against it as there is no app to control it from the computer. You can stream to it from the computer using bluetooth, but not wifi.
Headphones (IEMs included) even with a schiit modi/magni combo will sound significantly better than anything directly from a computer.
 

Trailblazin

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Upgradability is another . Changing speakers scraps the amp(s) . Personally, I like to be able to change out each major subsystem independently.

Why does this happen with active speakers? What causes the degradation over time, where are the stress points in a PC > Interface > Active Speaker chain?
 

Rantenti

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Active speakers usually cost significantly less than a separate amp and passive speaker combination of similar quality, and the amp/ speaker matching is usually optimized.

Apart from the larger JBL 305P, the Presonus Eris 3.5 is compact though the bass only extends to 80Hz due to it having only a 3.5-inch woofer. Tannoy 402's are also very budget friendly and the bass is down to 56Hz.

You could pick up a Topping E30 DAC + L30 Headamp/ preamp combo. The E30 has USB, optical and coaxial inputs.

The combinations above should fit your budget as well as your desk space constraints. Hope this helps.
 
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georgist

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Picking up equipment is actually pretty tough as a lot of items are out of stock.

A pair of used JBL LSR6325P-1 have come up locally, used, for $400 CAD.

https://jblpro.com/products/lsr6325p-1

They have an RCA input in each, this is slightly confusing to me. From what I can see online there are cables to split 3.5mm jack from the back of my PC to L/R RCA, however I'd need two pairs of L/R with the LSR6325p-1 pair, I think.

Would I need a DAC between my PC and these or could i just drive from my stock sound card with the right cables? I'm asking what's a good idea, not just what "can be done". Thanks!
 

astcal

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if you can stretch your budget a bit to $700:

Screenshot 2021-05-16_iLoud_MTM.png





Otherwsie try the Micro for $300:

Screenshot 2021-05-iLoud Micro.png





good reviews here on ASR as well:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...surements-and-quasi-anechoic-spinorama.10988/

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...imedia-iloud-mtm-review-active-monitor.18347/
 
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phoenixdogfan

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jBL 305P Mk2 Powered Monitors ($300 pr). Here's Erin's Audio Corner Review.

https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/jbl_305pmk2/

Add something versatile like a high performing interface such as the Focusrite Scarlett Solo which has a good dac, A to D conversion, and a headphone amp for $120.

Then go a little over budget and buy a Sennheiser 58x Jubilee for around $200. and for $620, you;ll have a complete set up. Finally, add Foobar 2000 to play everything losslessly on your PC (its' freeware!)

Later on, if you want, you could add a sub and have a high end full range system you could keep for years.
 
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georgist

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jBL 305P Mk2 Powered Monitors ($300 pr). Here's Erin's Audio Corner Review.

https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/jbl_305pmk2/

Add something versatile like a high performing interface such as the Focusrite Scarlett Solo which has a good dac, A to D conversion, and a headphone amp for $120.

Then go a little over budget and buy a Sennheiser 58x Jubilee for around $200. and for $620, you;ll have a complete set up. Finally, add Foobar 2000 to play everything losslessly on your PC (its' freeware!)

Later on, if you want, you could add a sub and have a high end full range system you could keep for years.

I'm picking up a pair of JBL 305p on Monday. I'm on linux so I think the Focusrite Scarlett Solo is not the best choice.

I'm unsure which DAC to get so considering just getting 3.5mm => XLR (mono / stereo ??) until I see a good deal, as some equipment is out of stock.
 

Lilith

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I'm picking up a pair of JBL 305p on Monday. I'm on linux so I think the Focusrite Scarlett Solo is not the best choice.

I'm unsure which DAC to get so considering just getting 3.5mm => XLR (mono / stereo ??) until I see a good deal, as some equipment is out of stock.

The Behringer UMC series works very good on Linux!
 

garbulky

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Thanks to all for the advice. It appears the consensus is active speakers, perhaps with a DAC, either integrated or standalone.

If I go down the active route, what am I missing out on, given my price point? Longevity seems to be one thing.
Active is a good choice at this price range. You save on space. The amp and speaker come together. My vote is for a used Emotiva airmotiv 5, it's quite amazing for what you get. I use a speaker system which new retails around 4 or 5 k. But if I had purchased the airmotiv 5, chances are I would have been perfectly happy with them and not "needed" to upgrade.

The problem going non active is then you have to pay for an amp. Then a DAC. And if the dac does not have a preamp with it, you'll be paying for a preamp. By that time your budget could get easily used up on the electronics. For instance a cheap good amp is the Emotiva Bas-X A-100. But it's $200. You still have to spend about $100-300 on a DAC/preamp system. You see how your budget quickly runs out! At these price points the biggest limitation in sound quality is going to be your speaker system. So the more money you have to spend on the speakers the better. So going active makes more sense.

If you have a budget of about $1500 to $2000 then looking at non-active solutions can bring you much greater choice.
For instance my setup is a PC with a dedicated SPDIF digital output card, a BNC connection which goes to an Emotiva DC-1 which is powered by fully balanced (high bias class A) Emotiva XPA-1 gen 2 monoblocks. I have then biwired with very thick speaker cable. They go to floorstanding Axiom M80 tower speakers. None of those things are at all necessary for great sound. But since I had the choice and that's what I decided I liked I had the freedom to choose it. I wouldn't have the same freedom if I went active. Most actives you see are bookshelves and there is few affordable choices for active towers. You also don't usually get the choice of balanced amps, class A power. I have also swapped amps and experimented with tubes, class D, solid state etc because it is a passive system. But that choice cost $$$. You pay the price to make a choice...
 

wseroyer

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Hi, I've got a PC, it's got a stock sound card and USB ports. It runs linux, if that matters.

Today my active creative T40 speakers began playing up, crackling. I tried switching the power supply, same problem. Headphones in the same jack work fine, so it's not the source.

I'm a bit underwhelmed by them anyway and wanted to get some new kit.

I am open to any and all suggestions. My first basic confusion is whether to get active or passive speakers. Next is, depending on what I choose, should I get a DAC or just plug into the sound card 3.5mm jack, or put an amp between them?

sound card ====> amp ====> speakers (active/passive?)

or

USB ====> DAC ===> maybe amp ===> speakers (active or passive)

It would be a bonus to have something to plug my headphones into and have them take over from the speakers.

My desk is not deep, about 3x6 foot, speakers would go at each far corner.

I'm happy to be told my preconceptions are wrong, or if you think spending a bit more would give way better results, I'm open to this. Sorry if the above is totally naive, here to learn.

I have my Gaming laptop plugged into my home theater AVR via HDMI and let my Denon AVR-x3700h do all the atmos decoding, and I use a corsair lapboard to control my computer with when using it on my TV. if I where you, i'd get active speakers and use a Toslink cable from your motherboard to the speakers and let the dac built into the speakers do all the processing, it will be far better than any junk creative labs sound card that you get for your computer.
 
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georgist

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I have my Gaming laptop plugged into my home theater AVR via HDMI and let my Denon AVR-x3700h do all the atmos decoding, and I use a corsair lapboard to control my computer with when using it on my TV. if I where you, i'd get active speakers and use a Toslink cable from your motherboard to the speakers and let the dac built into the speakers do all the processing, it will be far better than any junk creative labs sound card that you get for your computer.
JBL 305p don't have an optical input. It has XLR or TRS.
I think from my PC I'd have to run a 3.5mm to XLR split.
 

wseroyer

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georgist

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georgist

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Update: got JBL 305p mkII and focusrite solo, 1/4 to xls cables.

Total was about $650CAD so $530 USD, so I did go over my original statement. So far very happy, sounds really great.
 

sweetchaos

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Update: got JBL 305p mkII and focusrite solo, 1/4 to xls cables.

Total was about $650CAD so $530 USD, so I did go over my original statement. So far very happy, sounds really great.
I recommend you install Equalizer APO (or Peace) and use PEQ to make them more neutral.
See my guide on how to.

Try both, and see which one you like:
Maiky: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s/jbl-305p-mkii-review-erin.22999/post-772756
Pierre: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s/jbl-305p-mkii-review-erin.22999/post-772822
 

ferrellms

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Hi, I've got a PC, it's got a stock sound card and USB ports. It runs linux, if that matters.

Today my active creative T40 speakers began playing up, crackling. I tried switching the power supply, same problem. Headphones in the same jack work fine, so it's not the source.

I'm a bit underwhelmed by them anyway and wanted to get some new kit.

I am open to any and all suggestions. My first basic confusion is whether to get active or passive speakers. Next is, depending on what I choose, should I get a DAC or just plug into the sound card 3.5mm jack, or put an amp between them?

sound card ====> amp ====> speakers (active/passive?)

or

USB ====> DAC ===> maybe amp ===> speakers (active or passive)

It would be a bonus to have something to plug my headphones into and have them take over from the speakers.

My desk is not deep, about 3x6 foot, speakers would go at each far corner.

I'm happy to be told my preconceptions are wrong, or if you think spending a bit more would give way better results, I'm open to this. Sorry if the above is totally naive, here to learn.


OK, since you asked - skip the sound card, and run 500 worth of powered monitors from the headphone jack or wifi or bluetooth. Yamaha and Mackie are well regarded (among others) - you just need a mini jack to stereo RCA jack plugs. Keep the level low at first. Consider cheap stands to tilt the monitors up toward your ears.
 
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georgist

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I recommend you install Equalizer APO (or Peace) and use PEQ to make them more neutral.
See my guide on how to.

Try both, and see which one you like:
Maiky: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s/jbl-305p-mkii-review-erin.22999/post-772756
Pierre: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s/jbl-305p-mkii-review-erin.22999/post-772822

Thanks. When I install the s/w on windows it prompts to install APO and allows me to select devices.

What is actually happening here? If I do install this does it modify the factory settings on my speaker? If I do load one of the configs (Maiky/Pierre), is this written to memory on the speakers, and persists across power cycles? Can I get back to the factory settings easily?

Just asking before I click "yes" 15 times and then realize I can't go back. Interested in this but wary! I suspect this is a dumb question as the cabling between focusrite and speaker isn't capable of this.
 
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