Agreed but the appearance with the doors off seems somewhat "unfinished."I just took my doors off, I’m my opinion the doors aren’t up to the level of finish quality of the speakers.
Agreed but the appearance with the doors off seems somewhat "unfinished."I just took my doors off, I’m my opinion the doors aren’t up to the level of finish quality of the speakers.
Those would prevent the closing of the rear door over my connections
Copycats running the same speaker wire.I just took my doors off,
I don't think so.Copycats running the same speaker wire.
I just checked and I've been using these cables (Canare 4S11) since 2007, so I'll wager I was first!Copycats running the same speaker wire.
I put a length of heat shrink tubing over the - (black) lead for the same reason. Looking at a pair of banana's plugged into amps/speakers they seemed to be just begging to touch each other and short out unless something is done.
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You do although I did not recognize them from your picture. Shrink wrap over the leads going into the plug?I just checked and I've been using these cables (Canare 4S11) since 2007, so I'll wager I was first!
Just a bit of grey shrink wrap where the outer jacket ends.You do although I did not recognize them from your picture. Shrink wrap over the leads going into the plug?
All you'd have to do is bump one sideways and they absolutely could touch, I just tested.How would/could that literally happen?
I don't use locking banana plugs or screw down RCA plugs. Personally I think they are a stupid idea.
The destruction of front panels, casework, speakers and chassis mounted 4mm/RCA sockets I have seen over the years caused by such designs would make your collective heads spin.
Imagine tripping over or catching the speaker wire on standmounted speakers or slim towers with locking bananas. Instead of pulling out, they pull the speaker onto the floor. Their weight also means when they swing and hit something, they leave a big mark or scratch.
I still use quality Japanese 4mm banana plugs (nickel plated over copper IIRC) I originally bought decades ago, maybe 100 of each, red and black. The same ones I use on my test gear also get used for the various speaker cables.
These angled ones work better for that but are even more likely to touch each other. The Tygon prevents that from happening and allows better finger grip.
Thank you for the warning. I have tightened it and I am stunned at the consequent overall improvement. Tomorrow, I will loosen all my black connectors and then tighten them so that I can enjoy the improvements system-wide.You should screw up the black (-) collar of the pictured plug- it's about to fall off the thread. Must be all that EDM you've been playing- it loosened the collar.
I would describe them as fitting with satisfactory firmness.Like so many other cheap Chinese banana plugs, those particular "Nakamichi" plugs are just way too tight in properly specified 4mm sockets. The insertion force required across all sockets I tried, is grossly excessive in my opinion. I have a pile of them here but they are unused. Maybe the Salon 2 sockets are oversized and your plugs fit nicely?
Yup.Same plugs:
Tomorrow, I will loosen all my black connectors
In my case, it is the cable I use for speaker testing. As soon as I pull them out and drop on the floor, they short out. Not a good thought when you have the output of a 1000 watt amp shorted out that way! Hate the darn things....How would/could that literally happen?
Yes. Unfortunately, this issue is still polarizing.Black connectors matter, Kal.
As soon as I pull them out and drop on the floor, they short out. Not a good thought when you have the output of a 1000 watt amp shorted out that way!
@RayDunzl uses his Krells to spot weld auto panels in the garage by day, and play music at night.
Have you actually shorted the MLs at high power?
Check out the assortment of goodies RJ's got.Some of my "normal" 4mm plugs/sockets:
Check out the assortment of goodies RJ's got.
Well you do have the rubbers just before nuts.Desperately trying to organize parts this year, Sal. Bought a 96 drawer steel framed vertical unit which rotates on ball bearings for some of the overflow. Just getting fed up with digging through boxes for parts I know I've got, but can't seem to find.
Slowly filling up, starting with the things most often reached for.
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And before you say anything cheeky, it's rubber things, pads, glides, stops, etc.
I did with the same bloody banana cables. They were barely touching and the amp did not seem to mind! I on the other hand, did, very much. Yes, there is a protection circuit but heaven knows amp with protection circuits die all the time.Have you actually shorted the MLs at high power?