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Locking Banana comparison

Kal Rubinson

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I just took my doors off, I’m my opinion the doors aren’t up to the level of finish quality of the speakers.
Agreed but the appearance with the doors off seems somewhat "unfinished."
 

Sal1950

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waynel

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Copycats running the same speaker wire. :p
I just checked and I've been using these cables (Canare 4S11) since 2007, so I'll wager I was first!
 
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krabapple

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I put a length of heat shrink tubing over the - (black) lead for the same reason. Looking at a pair of banana's plugged into amps/speakers they seemed to be just begging to touch each other and short out unless something is done.
View attachment 92386

How would/could that literally happen?

Two banana plugs somehow becoming flexible and touching has *never* happened to me in >3 decades of audio hobbying. What *can* happen is a stray copper strands from wire carelessly attached to a speaker or AVR input, touching its neighbor.
 

Kal Rubinson

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I just checked and I've been using these cables (Canare 4S11) since 2007, so I'll wager I was first!
You do although I did not recognize them from your picture. Shrink wrap over the leads going into the plug?
 
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waynel

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You do although I did not recognize them from your picture. Shrink wrap over the leads going into the plug?
Just a bit of grey shrink wrap where the outer jacket ends.
 

Sal1950

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How would/could that literally happen?
All you'd have to do is bump one sideways and they absolutely could touch, I just tested.
As in someone walking or vacuuming behind the speakers while playing.
Anyhow, better safe than sorry for a few cents in shrink tubing and a couple minutes time.
 

Wes

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I don't use locking banana plugs or screw down RCA plugs. Personally I think they are a stupid idea.

The destruction of front panels, casework, speakers and chassis mounted 4mm/RCA sockets I have seen over the years caused by such designs would make your collective heads spin.

Imagine tripping over or catching the speaker wire on standmounted speakers or slim towers with locking bananas. Instead of pulling out, they pull the speaker onto the floor. Their weight also means when they swing and hit something, they leave a big mark or scratch.

I still use quality Japanese 4mm banana plugs (nickel plated over copper IIRC) I originally bought decades ago, maybe 100 of each, red and black. The same ones I use on my test gear also get used for the various speaker cables.

hey now! Your cable elevators need to be high enough to prevent tripping
 

restorer-john

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These angled ones work better for that but are even more likely to touch each other. The Tygon prevents that from happening and allows better finger grip.

You should screw up the black (-) collar of the pictured plug- it's about to fall off the thread. Must be all that EDM you've been playing- it loosened the collar. :)

Like so many other cheap Chinese banana plugs, those particular "Nakamichi" plugs are just way too tight in properly specified 4mm sockets. The insertion force required across all sockets I tried, is grossly excessive in my opinion. I have a pile of them here but they are unused. Maybe the Salon 2 sockets are oversized and your plugs fit nicely?

Same plugs:
IMG_3906 (Medium).jpeg

IMG_3905 (Medium).jpeg

IMG_3907 (Medium).jpeg


But 4mm sockets on speakers vary wildly in their tolerances these days, so an audiophile needs a wide variety of plugs. I guess expanding plugs can overcome the poor tolerances somewhat.

Some of my "normal" 4mm plugs/sockets:
IMG_3909 (Medium).jpeg


I do find it incredible that every 4mm socket on my test equipment and all the plugs and sockets from original Japanese sources are uniform, are firm, but not so tight as to be ridiculous. No gold plating, no giant bits of brass or terminals that need a spanner to tighten them. The Chinese copies of the same plugs are hopeless. Trouble is, you can't find the Japanese originals anymore. I think they were made by Sato back in the day.

But the solution has been staring us all in the face for 50+ years. The PL-259. It's an evolution of the banana, so is also backwards compatible with a 4mm plug. It's sealed, uses high grade, high current contacts and is physically superior in all ways.
1604961881594.png


Use two, one for + one for - and the screw down collar is just for mechanical support and environmental sealing. A single speaker wire for each plug.
1604962030323.png


Easy.
 
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Kal Rubinson

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You should screw up the black (-) collar of the pictured plug- it's about to fall off the thread. Must be all that EDM you've been playing- it loosened the collar.
Thank you for the warning. I have tightened it and I am stunned at the consequent overall improvement. Tomorrow, I will loosen all my black connectors and then tighten them so that I can enjoy the improvements system-wide. :)

Like so many other cheap Chinese banana plugs, those particular "Nakamichi" plugs are just way too tight in properly specified 4mm sockets. The insertion force required across all sockets I tried, is grossly excessive in my opinion. I have a pile of them here but they are unused. Maybe the Salon 2 sockets are oversized and your plugs fit nicely?
I would describe them as fitting with satisfactory firmness.

Same plugs:
Yup.
 

amirm

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How would/could that literally happen?
In my case, it is the cable I use for speaker testing. As soon as I pull them out and drop on the floor, they short out. Not a good thought when you have the output of a 1000 watt amp shorted out that way! Hate the darn things....
 

restorer-john

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As soon as I pull them out and drop on the floor, they short out. Not a good thought when you have the output of a 1000 watt amp shorted out that way!

@RayDunzl uses his Krells to spot weld auto panels in the garage by day, and play music at night. :p

Have you actually shorted the MLs at high power?
 

RayDunzl

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@RayDunzl uses his Krells to spot weld auto panels in the garage by day, and play music at night. :p

Have you actually shorted the MLs at high power?

I've been quite careful with them, since I figure I would be unable to effect a repair.

As for errant Banana Plugs...

I've only ever used these (back in 1982 for the PA amps and speakers)


1604967416701.png
 

Sal1950

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restorer-john

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Check out the assortment of goodies RJ's got.

Desperately trying to organize parts this year, Sal. Bought a 96 drawer steel framed vertical unit which rotates on ball bearings for some of the overflow. Just getting fed up with digging through boxes for parts I know I've got, but can't seem to find.

Slowly filling up, starting with the things most often reached for. :)
IMG_3910 (Small).jpeg

IMG_3911 (Small).jpeg

IMG_3912 (Small).jpeg


And before you say anything cheeky, it's rubber things, pads, glides, stops, etc. ;)
 

Blumlein 88

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Desperately trying to organize parts this year, Sal. Bought a 96 drawer steel framed vertical unit which rotates on ball bearings for some of the overflow. Just getting fed up with digging through boxes for parts I know I've got, but can't seem to find.

Slowly filling up, starting with the things most often reached for. :)
View attachment 92706
View attachment 92707
View attachment 92708

And before you say anything cheeky, it's rubber things, pads, glides, stops, etc. ;)
Well you do have the rubbers just before nuts. ;)
 
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amirm

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Have you actually shorted the MLs at high power?
I did with the same bloody banana cables. They were barely touching and the amp did not seem to mind! I on the other hand, did, very much. :) Yes, there is a protection circuit but heaven knows amp with protection circuits die all the time.
 
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