Hi!! Anybody knows a about the wega/Sony 3000A hifi stereo amplifier... or the studio 3000A ? Seems to be the same amplifier with different names help

[Natogarciajr]

 

[Natogarciajr]

I found one of the Sony 3000A here in my city... it’s about 200 usd... I don’t know anything about the amp... there’s no specs anywhere... I think it 100wpc but I’m just guessing I don’t know it’s a good investment o not.. can anybody help me

 

[RayDunzl]

there’s no specs anywhere

Found this:

https://sgerasimuk.blogspot.com/2015/10/studio-3000-integrated-stereo-amplifier.html

 

[restorer-john]

Sony acquired Wega in the 1970s and used the name on their TVs for a while. Whether Sony sent Sony products to Europe with the Wega badge on, I'd have to check, but that unit is decidedly EU construction.

from wikipedia:

"WEGA, pronounced "Vega", was founded as Wuerttembergische Radio-Gesellschaft mbh in Stuttgart, Germany in the year 1923. In 1975, it was acquired by Sony Corporation. They were then known throughout Europe for stylish and high-quality stereo equipment, designed by Hartmut Esslinger, amongst others. Sony continued to use the WEGA brand until 2005, when liquid-crystal displays superseded the company's Trinitron aperture grille-based CRT models."

The amplifier pictured in Ray's link show construction using a mixture of European and Japanese components, and a typical construction type from I would say about 1976-7, so under Sony's control early on.

 

[restorer-john]

It's certainly not 100W/ch. based on the bodgy EU spec sheet, I'd put it around 55w/ch at 8ohms.

IMO, it is not worth USD$200 in that condition. Maybe $50 tops if you can see past all the damage. I would pass and wait for something better.

 

[Natogarciajr]

Sony acquired Wega in the 1970s and used the name on their TVs for a while. Whether Sony sent Sony products to Europe with the Wega badge on, I'd have to check, but that unit is decidedly EU construction.

from wikipedia:

"WEGA, pronounced "Vega", was founded as Wuerttembergische Radio-Gesellschaft mbh in Stuttgart, Germany in the year 1923. In 1975, it was acquired by Sony Corporation. They were then known throughout Europe for stylish and high-quality stereo equipment, designed by Hartmut Esslinger, amongst others. Sony continued to use the WEGA brand until 2005, when liquid-crystal displays superseded the company's Trinitron aperture grille-based CRT models."

The amplifier pictured in Ray's link show construction using a mixture of European and Japanese components, and a typical construction type from I would say about 1976-7, so under Sony's control early on.

I



I found a photo of back of the studio 300a not the wega... and both are so different... front are exactly the same...

 

[Natogarciajr]

I found this Marantz.. the owner ask $600 you have to keep in mind that here in Ecuador aren’t so much vintage equipment... and we can’t import used stereos or amps.... so I have to wait to go there in bring it with me or look here for something in nice shape

 

[Natogarciajr]

Found this:

https://sgerasimuk.blogspot.com/2015/10/studio-3000-integrated-stereo-amplifier.html

Thnx Ray

 

[Natogarciajr]

It's certainly not 100W/ch. based on the bodgy EU spec sheet, I'd put it around 55w/ch at 8ohms.

IMO, it is not worth USD$200 in that condition. Maybe $50 tops if you can see past all the damage. I would pass and wait for something better.

thanks for your help

 

[restorer-john]

The Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.

Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.

There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:

The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.

The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.

There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.

The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).

There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.

The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.

The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.

Cheers.

 

[Natogarciajr]

The Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.

Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.

There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:

The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.

The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.

There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.

The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).

There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.

The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.

The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.

Cheers.

Thnxs John...

I just beginning this... in my 42’s I just want to

The Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.

Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.

There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:

The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.

The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.

There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.

The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).

There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.

The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.

The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.

Cheers.

Thanks

The Marantz 1180DC is a lovely amplifier. I have a few from that series including the 1152DC which is essentially the same apart from a few watts between them and a couple of 'peak' LEDs.

Both the amps have double paralleled TO-3 high powered outputs, big heatsink and a large power supply with a heavily ventilated metal casework design.

There are some common issues with the unit which will need to be looked at:

The phono and input board is mounted front to back and trackside up. Because of that, dust and environmental detritus lands directly through the vents onto the high gain section of the phono preamp. Often, the stage will oscillate and self destruct, taking out two dropper resistors and a transistor or two. The board needs to be carefuly cleaned and de-fluxed in that area for long term reliability.

The Nippon Chemicon caps on the boards are also prone to failure.

There are also a few STV (varistor diodes) which can be touchy in their old age on the power amp boards.

The push buttons for the filters, tone and muting are silver plated contacts over copper and exposed to the air. They become very noisy and a simple squirt with contact cleaner is not good enough. You need to dismantle the front and remove the entire PCB and carefully dismantle and clean each exposed slide switch. (the push buttons actuate a type of slide- you'll see what I mean).

There are also coupling caps in the preamp stage that can become leaky (passing DC) and cause audible 'cracks' and premature DC protector tripping.

The three tone sliders also get noisy- they can be tamed with deoxit or CRC 2-26.

The performance of those amplifiers is excellent. I can attest to that. All the above issues are minor, but when combined, they appear to be a lot worse than they are. I can help you step through any work it needs.

Cheers.

Thanks John I really appreciate...
in my 42 years I want to feel again the sounds that I have recorded in my memories when I heard my father play his records ... so it is very important for me to start well...

I can buy a pioneer sx-950... the owner ask 550us... keep
In mind I can’t really see the equipment... I just have to trust in photos and the owners word

 

[restorer-john]

I would buy the Marantz 1180DC. It will always have a higher resale than the SX-950 and down the track, when FM and AM are long gone, it won't be an expensive doorstop.

The Marantz 1180DC is also a better performer.

Main thing is, don't jump on the first expensive thing that comes along, be patient and look for bargains.

 

[Natogarciajr]

If you type Marantz in OLX or mercado libre... those are the eBay websites here.... just came 5 or 6 results... and 4 of them are just tunners... so I don’t know if waiting right here it’s the way to go... for example... a few weeks ago some guy put on sale one Sansui qrx 9001... I just spend a few hours researching and decided to buy it... to late... I wasn’t quick enough

 

[Natogarciajr]