Yamaha RX-V6A 7.2 channel 4K / 8K Dolby AV Receiver Review

[3dbinCanada]

DC or some burst on pre-outs when switching audio settings?
To cut a long story shortish I have been trying various buffers on the front pre-outs of this AVR. My preamp has a lowish input impedance (10k) and the performance of the AVR pre-outs is then even worse for THD at high pre-out levels (Measured with RME ADI-2 PRO with similar input impedance, 62dB at high dBFS). Using a buffer helps but may create other problems. Anyway I tracked down an old iFI i-tube V1 which just arrived. (there is a new V2 version that doesn't seem in stock anywhere).

I hooked it up and there was dreadful popping whenever you did anything with audio settings or inputs apart from adjust volume. The AVR uses a PCM1502A DAC which claims it does not need output coupling capacitors. Looking at the datasheet it looks like it has an "advanced mute" which will mute when there is loss of input. sync. I think it does this when you change settings, inputs etc and it must then create DC or something for a bit. I tried to measure with a mulitimeter and when switching I pickup a 0.05mV DC bump most of the time. Not enough to cause a problem but indicative that something is happening. I don't have a scope to be sure.

I put in a dodgy isolation transformer and it solved the problem. The AVR direct into the preamp doesn't have the issue so it must be related to the iTube input stage. THe output stage is AC coupled I believe as the V2 iTube advertised that it had removed the output couplers. SIgh, I may have to give up or put in some coupling capacitors. THis is only a theoretical issue really as I don't use the AVR above -20dBFS where the DAC performance is OK into the preamp.

Why are you feeding a preamp with this AVR? That makes very little sense to me. What outputs on the AVR are you using to feed the preamp?

 

[dougi]

Why are you feeding a preamp with this AVR? That makes very little sense to me. What outputs on the AVR are you using to feed the preamp?

The AVR feeds a Lyngdorf DPA-1 preamp so I can use its room correction for the front speakers (and two channel listening for other sources). The front preouts from the AVR go to the input that can be configured for volume bypass.

 

[3dbinCanada]

The preouts of the AVR are meant to feed the inputs of power amplifiers, not preamps.

 

[peng]

Why do you need an extra buffer for the pre out, what's the input impedance of your power amp? Keep in mind unless you disconnect the internal amps of the AVR, an extra buffer isn't going to help a lot unless your power amp's input impedance is on the low side, such as below 20,000 ohms. Even if you do gain by reducing he load of the AVR pre outs, you can't be sure if there is a net gain in terms of overall audio performance by adding an extra preamp in the signal path.

 

[avrpdx]

So I just saw the Costco version of this(TSR-700) is $399 and I have been looking for an HDMI 2.1 receiver with decent amps to replace my Denon 3500H. The frequency response with the DSP and crossovers in place would be a deal breaker for me but I actually do all my bass management and PEQ through Equalizer APO and run my receiver in direct mode so that is actually fine with me. My question is does anyone think some of the negatives of this receiver would be audible? I see a lot of measurements of analog or coaxial inputs but I would think 99% of people just use HDMI inputs with the internal amplifiers. I was also just looking up a post on the DIY forum about a blind test where no one could distinguish between a $30 and a $3000 DAC so it makes me wonder if the low SINAD numbers even matter in real listening. What do you guys think, buy it or wait for a better one? My TV isn't HDMI 2.1 yet so that won't matter but eventually I'm going to need an HDMI 2.1 receiver.

Late reply, but this reviewer certainly didn't seem to have any problems with it:

 

[Helicopter]

Late reply, but this reviewer certainly didn't seem to have any problems with it:

Andrew is nothing but a talking head.

 

[dougi]

I have noticed something strange since latest firmware update for these. I use a basic 5.1 system and generally prefer to leave it on NEO 6: music as a surround mode as a personal preference. However, for some dolby digital content (not DD True HD) (only some) it refuses to use it and insists on Dolby surround decoding.

From the Dolby metadata guide I can't seem to see that there is a flag which would allow content to force this, but could be wrong. I wonder what is going on?

 

[Follower]

I have noticed something strange since latest firmware update for these. I use a basic 5.1 system and generally prefer to leave it on NEO 6: music as a surround mode as a personal preference. However, for some dolby digital content (not DD True HD) (only some) it refuses to use it and insists on Dolby surround decoding.

I've seen this as well with Dolby Digital content — if I'm watching my Apple TV and have my surround upmixer set to, say, DTS Neural:X, and go to watch a program encoded with Dolby Atmos, my pre/pro (a CX-A5100) with switch to DSU to play the Atmos content. It will then resist trying to switch the surround decoder to something else.

My Oppo UHD player will not do this with Atmos blu-rays, but rather stay on Neural:X until I change it to DSU, where I briefly see the TrueHD and then the Atmos display indicator on the 5100's display. I can then switch back to DTS or other decoder modes (and lose the four Atmos channels in the process).

So this checks out that lossy Dolby Digital (+) can force an upmixer switch while lossless TrueHD does not seem to do the same. The former uses Dolby MAT metadata to keep track of Atmos; maybe that's part of the key.

(Long-time lurker, first post. I figured, why not register?)

 

[dougi]

I've seen this as well with Dolby Digital content — if I'm watching my Apple TV and have my surround upmixer set to, say, DTS Neural:X, and go to watch a program encoded with Dolby Atmos, my pre/pro (a CX-A5100) with switch to DSU to play the Atmos content. It will then resist trying to switch the surround decoder to something else.

My Oppo UHD player will not do this with Atmos blu-rays, but rather stay on Neural:X until I change it to DSU, where I briefly see the TrueHD and then the Atmos display indicator on the 5100's display. I can then switch back to DTS or other decoder modes (and lose the four Atmos channels in the process).

So this checks out that lossy Dolby Digital (+) can force an upmixer switch while lossless TrueHD does not seem to do the same. The former uses Dolby MAT metadata to keep track of Atmos; maybe that's part of the key.

(Long-time lurker, first post. I figured, why not register?)

Welcome! Great to know it's not just me. Even better if someone would chime in with a definitive answer on the exact metadata, as I couldn't find it.

 

[Sal1950]

(Long-time lurker, first post. I figured, why not register?)

We got ya now.
You can check out any time you like
But you can never leave.

 

[rccarguy]

Any chance you could review the adventage Yamaha receivers in looking for one with full set of preouts
Like to know if they provide stable voltage my amps are 1.6.and 1v

 

[dougi]

Any chance you could review the adventage Yamaha receivers in looking for one with full set of preouts
Like to know if they provide stable voltage my amps are 1.6.and 1v

Looking at the manuals for them, you cannot turn the power amps off and the specs for the preouts are the same as for this one. Different DACs, so in reality may be different. Likely good enough to 1.6V. No measurements anywhere yet so we'll have to wait and see.

 

[EB1000]

I just got a call from the local dealer yesterday, that my pre-ordered RX-A6A will arrive at the store by end of August, a month earlier than expected. This review and the one of the RX-A1080, make me very nervous about my new investment. I already laid down 50% of it's price (about 1600$), and I'm seriously considering canceling the order and waiting for a measurement review by Amir or Gene...

 

[HiFidFan]

Late reply, but this reviewer certainly didn't seem to have any problems with it:

This "reviewer" rarely has a problem with any gear

 

[Ataraxia]

I just got a call from the local dealer yesterday, that my pre-ordered RX-A6A will arrive at the store by end of August, a month earlier than expected. This review and the one of the RX-A1080, make me very nervous about my new investment. I already laid down 50% of it's price (about 1600$), and I'm seriously considering canceling the order and waiting for a measurement review by Amir or Gene...

FWIW my A2080 is awesome running my R3's. I prefer running YPAO, YPAO volume off, Enhancer on. Excellent imaging, soundstage, instrument separation, vocal clarity with music. Great phantom surround watching movies in only 2.0 with AI enabled and surround downmixed. Room matters though. My current apt is only "good." The pic shows my current less than ideal speaker placement which is about the best I can do in this apt.

 

[rccarguy]

FWIW my A2080 is awesome running my R3's. I prefer running YPAO, YPAO volume off, Enhancer on. Excellent imaging, soundstage, instrument separation, vocal clarity with music. Great phantom surround watching movies in only 2.0 with AI enabled and surround downmixed. Room matters though. My current apt is only "good." The pic shows my current less than ideal speaker placement which is about the best I can do in this apt.

Right speaker is too close to wall

 

[Ataraxia]

Right speaker is too close to wall

I know. Unfortunately that's about what I get. That's also why I toed them in slightly where I usually would not.

 

[BN1]

For an entry-level avr I believe that this Yamaha is fine. Certainly feature rich and power galore. I also expect the Aventage models to do significantly better on measurements which is really what you expect from more expensive units and they need to surpass the performance of the RX-A1080 model that ASR has tested. That would indicate that Yamaha is paying attention to details.

 

[dougi]

For an entry-level avr I believe that this Yamaha is fine. Certainly feature rich and power galore. I also expect the Aventage models to do significantly better on measurements which is really what you expect from more expensive units and they need to surpass the performance of the RX-A1080 model that ASR has tested. That would indicate that Yamaha is paying attention to details.

Well, the Adventage RX-A2A is really a V6A with a different skin and slightly large PS caps. I have measured the pre-outs of my A2A and just as bad as the v6A in this thread. There is also a thread on the newer "proper" Adventage A4A+, and there seems to be some measurement issues with those too.

 

[BN1]

Well, the Adventage RX-A2A is really a V6A with a different skin and slightly large PS caps. I have measured the pre-outs of my A2A and just as bad as the v6A in this thread. There is also a thread on the newer "proper" Adventage A4A+, and there seems to be some measurement issues with those too.

That is disappointing, not like they didn't have time to refine the design/build. I'm eyeing the A4A as a replacement for my RX-A660. BTW, what does the "+" signify ?