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Maybe you don't need an expensive camera either

iridium

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Question for all: Is there a quality digital DSLR without all the miscellaneous?
I do NOT want autofocus, do NOT want video, do NOT want WIFI & Bluetooth, etc.
I want an old-style FILM DSLR [think 1960s Nikon F2] that is digital.
Thank you in advance for replies.

iridium.
 

Frank Dernie

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I have a Canon 5D with the three usual F4 EF series 1 zooms - too big, heavy and obvious. I must sell them.

I also have Fuji X series cameras. Smaller, lighter and better value for me - and my stack of Canon FD lenses focus well on them.

In fact all I really need is a simple digital back for my Canon A1 - and no menus. I hate menus unless they are printed restaurant ones.
Most digital cameras are festooned with unnecessary functions. I learned photography with a camera with just focus, aperture and shutter speed. I eventually could afford a hand held incident meter, but could guess well enough for B&W.
As I could afford it I bought better cameras, and despite owning a Canon EOS 1n mainly used a Leica M6 because it was lighter and gave better results for me.
The craft of photography is largely dead now since everything is automated even keen photographers don't usually learn it.
It took a long time before ttl meters were as effective as hand held incident meters, and using fast lenses I prefer manual to auto focus - I have a little used 85mm f1.2 Canon lens and most autofocus portraits have focus on the tip of the nose not the eyes - steering the focus poin around is slower than manual focus ime.
Anyway I am in the process of selling almost everything, keeping long lenses and a few specialist items but using a phone for most things.
Super high resolution is not needed for prints, and if one doesn't make prints I see little point in quality pictures, not needed for facebook :)!
 

Frank Dernie

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Question for all: Is there a quality digital DSLR without all the miscellaneous?
I do NOT want autofocus, do NOT want video, do NOT want WIFI & Bluetooth, etc.
I want an old-style FILM DSLR [think 1960s Nikon F2] that is digital.
Thank you in advance for replies.

iridium.
I have an Epson RD1, which is long discontinued but still popular with those disliking complexity.
Other than that the Leica M digitals have the simplest and most logical menus I have seen, but are pricy.
Both have rangefinder focusing though, not reflex.
The Olympus micro 4/3 cameras are tiny and I get super results but the menu system is ludicrous in the extreme.

Edit:
If you have old Nikon lenses some of the Nikon digital bodies can use them in a manual mode.
 

Soniclife

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iridium

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I have an Epson RD1, which is long discontinued but still popular with those disliking complexity.
Other than that the Leica M digitals have the simplest and most logical menus I have seen, but are pricy.
Both have rangefinder focusing though, not reflex.
The Olympus micro 4/3 cameras are tiny and I get super results but the menu system is ludicrous in the extreme.

Edit:
If you have old Nikon lenses some of the Nikon digital bodies can use them in a manual mode.

Thank you for the information.
I had great Nikon system spanning the 1960s to 1980s. A major theft involving most valuable pieces led to selling off the rest and buying a Canon EOS 630 [film] with one lenses.
Best to you,
iridium.
 

Old Listener

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Question for all: Is there a quality digital DSLR without all the miscellaneous?
I do NOT want autofocus, do NOT want video, do NOT want WIFI & Bluetooth, etc.
I want an old-style FILM DSLR [think 1960s Nikon F2] that is digital.
Thank you in advance for replies.

iridium.

If you are willing to do a little consumer research before you buy and a bit of learning after you buy, you can get a DSLR set up to work as you want it.

autofocus? Just switch to manual focus and leave it there.
video? Just don't push the video button.
WiFi? Bluetooth? These functions may be off by default. If not, turn them off.
autometering? If you don't want it, switch to manual mode.

Do you plan to use out-of-the-camera JPEG mages? Or do you expect to produce Raw files and process them in Photoshop?
 

iridium

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If you are willing to do a little consumer research before you buy and a bit of learning after you buy, you can get a DSLR set up to work as you want it.

autofocus? Just switch to manual focus and leave it there.
video? Just don't push the video button.
WiFi? Bluetooth? These functions may be off by default. If not, turn them off.
autometering? If you don't want it, switch to manual mode.

Do you plan to use out-of-the-camera JPEG mages? Or do you expect to produce Raw files and process them in Photoshop?

Thank you for the information.
Probably just the JPEG images.
Best to you,
iridium.
 

RayDunzl

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Frank Dernie

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One man's unnecessary functions may be another man's essentials. I have my short list of essentials and they are probably completely different from yours.
Maybe - I would say the only functions which are actually essential are the capability to focus accurately and to adjust exposure. Anything else may well be "nice to have" or "deciding factor between options" but hardly "essential" :)
My irritation arises from finding the item I occasionally wish to change amongst the thousands of possibilities I do not. I gave up on Canon years ago after missing wildlife shots due to changing to manual focus being in a menu rather than an easily used switch, for example.
 

FrantzM

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Hi

I agree with most of the posts here. I had a very nice Canon EOS 5D Mark III with 5 lenses that were "borrowed" by an unknown and untoward person ... The total price for the system was north of $10K ...
I bought for a trip a Nikon D3300 and find myself liking it even more so than the Canon. Pix are the same in quality as far as my 11 x 14 go .. provided I use <400 ISO on the Nikon 3400 seems that I could go higher with the Canon, perhaps even up to 1600?

The world is run with software. The problem is that aside from Apple and perhaps a few others ( I don't know any frankly suggestions are thus welcome) , in the vast majority of cases, human interface is poor... Very poor to abysmal. They seem to burry things sunder so many layers as to render the function unusable ... Right now these are from bad to ridiculous... (Press Control while holding the Caps button, then press ALT and CTRL + F2 then you land in a first window, then press SHIFT + DEL to get to the second window. BS kind of things...). The next revolution in software is in Interface ..
Cameras are the same. They add unnecessary steps to access the most used functions...
 

Old Listener

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Maybe - I would say the only functions which are actually essential are the capability to focus accurately and to adjust exposure. Anything else may well be "nice to have" or "deciding factor between options" but hardly "essential" :)
My irritation arises from finding the item I occasionally wish to change amongst the thousands of possibilities I do not. I gave up on Canon years ago after missing wildlife shots due to changing to manual focus being in a menu rather than an easily used switch, for example.

I use cameras to capture a subject that interests me. Closeups of wildflowers and insects matter most to me. Focus peaking, image magnification and blown highlight detection in the EVF or on the LCD screen made a big difference in my keeper rate when I got a camera with those features. For my wife those features changed our wildflower photography outings from an exercise in frustration into a pleasure. Once I discovered those features, they became essential for us. We would be very stupid not to regard them as essential for what we do.

A trip along Highway 395 in May 2017

https://naturelover.smugmug.com/Travel/May-2017-Hwy-18-178155395Plumas-Cnty

and a trip in late July to Mount Rainier

https://naturelover.smugmug.com/Travel/07262017trip-to-Mount-Rainier

I think you mentioned an Olympus camera earlier. They are notorious for having complicated menus. Even so, you can assign some frequently used functions to buttons and dials and others to a quick one-level menu. I think they call it the Super Control Panel (SCP).

We use Panasonic mirrorless cameras that have a less complicated menu structure. The functions that I use regularly are accessible via buttons and dials. I decided what I wanted on those physical controls and customized the cameras. Functions that I use occasionally are on the quick menu. The settings that matter to me are visible in the viewfinder or on the LCD as I am focusing on the subject. I can go for days and days without having to use the full menu.

When I do use the full menu, I make a top level choice between setup, playback, video, recording (stills) and recording customization functions. Once I choose one of those sub-menus, I get a single level list of functions that I can change. It can take a minute to scroll through the list but I don't get lost.

I use manual focus most of the time but when I want to change to auto focus, I just move a switch on the back of the camera. Some lenses have an AF/MF switch on the lens itself as well.
 
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Frank Dernie

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I use cameras to capture a subject that interests me. Closeups of wildflowers and insects matter most to me. Focus peaking, image magnification and blown highlight detection in the EVF or on the LCD screen made a big difference in my keeper rate when I got a camera with those features. For my wife those features changed our wildflower photography outings from an exercise in frustration into a pleasure. Once I discovered those features, they became essential for us. We would be very stupid not to regard them as essential for what we do.

A trip along Highway 395 in Mat 2017

https://naturelover.smugmug.com/Travel/May-2017-Hwy-18-178155395Plumas-Cnty

and a trip in late July to Mount Rainier

https://naturelover.smugmug.com/Travel/07262017trip-to-Mount-Rainier

I think you mentioned an Olympus camera earlier. They are notorious for having complicated menus. Even so, you can assign some frequently used functions to buttons and dials and others to a quick one-level menu. I think they call it the Super Control Panel (SCP).

We use Panasonic mirrorless cameras that have a less complicated menu structure. The functions that I use regularly are accessible via buttons and dials. I decided what I wanted on those physical controls and customized the cameras. Functions that I use occasionally are on the quick menu. The settings that matter to me are visible in the viewfinder or on the LCD as I am focusing on the subject. I can go for days and days without having to use the full menu.

When I do use the full menu, I make a top level choice between setup, playback, video, recording (stills) and recording customization functions. Once I choose one of those sub-menus, I get a single level list of functions that I can change. It can take a minute to scroll through the list but I don't get lost.

I use manual focus most of the time but when I want to change to auto focus, I just move a switch on the back of the camera. Some lenses have an AF/MF switch on the lens itself as well.
Lovely pictures!
I am a bit of a camera geek, I started taking pictures in about 1961 and have tried lots of cameras. In the digital range I currently have a CanonEOS Ds Mk2, Eos 7D, Nikon D3x, D700, Sony A7RII, Leica M, M9 and M8.2, Leica R8 with DMR, Fuji X-Pro1, 3 Olympus OMD-E1mk2, OMD-E5 and OMD-E1 plus a Panasonic I forget the type number.
I have a lot of lenses.
My eyes aren't as good as they were, with film cameras I always preferred a matt focusing screen to one with focusing aids, particularly since I used mainly fast lenses and the focusing aids usually "look" through a f5.6 window so they don't go dark with most lenses. Cameras with changeable focussing screens were much preferred for me then. I find focus peaking to be quite useful on the Sony, though on all the mirrorless cameras the focusing is done at taking aperture afaik so not as precise as an SLR or rangefinder.
I lost the will to live setting up the buttons on the Olympus, but have to admit that once done it makes it nicer to use than any others apart from Leica.
Have you tried focus stacking software? I like macro and thought I would like to use it but haven't. It would be quite a magic composite photograph.


PS I am loving your smugmug page!
 

Old Listener

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My comments in bold type.

Lovely pictures!
I am a bit of a camera geek, I started taking pictures in about 1961 and have tried lots of cameras. In the digital range I currently have a CanonEOS Ds Mk2, Eos 7D, Nikon D3x, D700, Sony A7RII, Leica M, M9 and M8.2, Leica R8 with DMR, Fuji X-Pro1, 3 Olympus OMD-E1mk2, OMD-E5 and OMD-E1 plus a Panasonic I forget the type number.
I have a lot of lenses.

That's a lot of cameras.

My eyes aren't as good as they were, with film cameras I always preferred a matt focusing screen to one with focusing aids, particularly since I used mainly fast lenses and the focusing aids usually "look" through a f5.6 window so they don't go dark with most lenses. Cameras with changeable focussing screens were much preferred for me then.

Things are different now. I don't think that changeable screens are a feature on must digital cameras.

In compensation, AF has gotten much better. CDAF is very precise. No micro focus adjustments problems that DSLRs had. I mostly use manual focus on closeups. With focus peaking and image magnification, I am much more confident that the subject is in focus now than I ever was when I used a DSLR.


I find focus peaking to be quite useful on the Sony, though on all the mirrorless cameras the focusing is done at taking aperture afaik so not as precise as an SLR or rangefinder.

I have no experience with focus peaking on Sony cameras. I have tried out Olympus m43 cameras in the past and found their focus peaking implementation to be unsatisfactory. I have not checked again recently.

I just tried focus peaking on my Panasonic G7 and Olympus 60mm macro lens. Spinning the aperture dial makes no difference in what focus peaking shows in the viewfinder. You may be referring to using adapted lenses. If so, it might be a question of whether you focus before stopping down or after.

I've checked the accuracy on our Panasonic cameras many times and always found it to be highly accurate.


I lost the will to live setting up the buttons on the Olympus, but have to admit that once done it makes it nicer to use than any others apart from Leica.

You seemed to have recovered.

Have you tried focus stacking software? I like macro and thought I would like to use it but haven't. It would be quite a magic composite photograph.

We don't use focus stacking for several reasons. It is not a good tool when the subject moves (breeze moving a flower or an insect moving on a flower.) With the 60mm lenses we use, 1:1 magnification requires a working distance of 6-7 inches from the sensor. From the front of the lens hood, that is 3-4 inches. Way too close for our purposes. 12-20 working distance is right for us and we don't need focus stacking to get enough depth of field. We crop as needed on our PCs.

Finally, I often admire the precision of well done focus stacked images. However, they frequently have a slightly sterile look. (Closeup photos taken with flash are far worse. Muddy backgrounds and the subject's colors seem off and dull.)

The m43 sensors have higher pixel density than ~24 Mpixel APS-C sensors. That translates to more pixels on the subject at the same optical magnification. There are no FFC cameras that have pixel densities even close to that of our m43 sensors. That gives us more freedom to crop.


PS I am loving your smugmug page!

Thanks. The flowers and insects supply the art and we supply the craft needed to capture their beauty.

I am always way behind in getting photo galleries on line. What you see on SmugMug is a small fraction of what we have photographed.

I have tapered off on posting to Flickr but our photostream there gives a collection of our activity over the years.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bill_lesley_photos/
 

Burning Sounds

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I use cameras to capture a subject that interests me. Closeups of wildflowers and insects matter most to me. Focus peaking, image magnification and blown highlight detection in the EVF or on the LCD screen made a big difference in my keeper rate when I got a camera with those features. For my wife those features changed our wildflower photography outings from an exercise in frustration into a pleasure. Once I discovered those features, they became essential for us. We would be very stupid not to regard them as essential for what we do.

A trip along Highway 395 in May 2017

https://naturelover.smugmug.com/Travel/May-2017-Hwy-18-178155395Plumas-Cnty

Beautiful pictures, thanks for sharing - and Highway 18 - that brings back some memories - for about 5 years I lived just down the road from Big Bear Lake in Runnings Springs. There was one winter I remember when the snowfall was exceptionally heavy and it was impossible to drive anywhere, so I took some rolls of Kodachrome and my Rollieflex and spent hours taking pictures in the pristine snowfall. I still have those slides, so its time I got them scanned as it doesn't appear too expensive to do so.

There was an unusual Radio Shack in Big Bear that was also a hifi dealer. I bought my first Monster cable there. I can't remember what hi-fi brands they carried other than Brian Cheney's VMPS speakers which always looked like they shouldn't sound good with their multitude of drivers, but I remember they seemed quite impressive at the time.
 

j_j

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I must admit as I get older, I find things like autofocus and VR to be very useful. (IS/VR/Whateveryoucallit) Ditto limited autoexposure control. The latest Nikon automatic systems are quite useful, and going back to 'P' to allow DOF control is very easy, as is changing ISO to suit the situation.

First versions were not useful. D200 was primitive. Also heavy.
 

NorthSky

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