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HIDIZS S8 USB-C Headphone Adapter Review

Zarniwoop

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Apr 8, 2020
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lystor

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Zarniwoop, thank you!

Latest windows driver works with V1.0 firmware without the BSOD on volume changing
(but it should be installed manually as MiloTheFirst wrote).

Annoying clicks on tracks switching are gone too compared to default usbaudio2 driver.

Is there any firmware between V1.0 (A) and V3.0?
 

eeeper

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Upgraded to the V3 firmware after a little finessing. Sounds a little different afterwards, in a good way, overall pretty happy with the way it works and sounds.
 

Cirrus Incus

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I finally got my Sonata after 2 months. It think it sounds better than my PC's motherboard, but I can't tell if it's a just a placebo.
 

charleski

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I haven't seen any mention so far of the filter this thing uses. Since I got my TempoTec a couple of days ago (6 days from AliX!) I thought I'd do some crude tests. These are recorded into Audition using the very basic ADC on my motherboard running at 192kHz.

44.1kHz white noise:
44.1kHz White Noise.PNG
Looks like there's a nice sharp cutoff at fs/2. I have no idea what's going on with the hump around 26kHz, which may be an artifact of my motherboard's sound input, so I wouldn't worry about it unless someone measures the same thing with better equipment.

1kHz square wave (fs 44.1kHz):
1kHz Square.PNG
Unfortunately it looks like it's using a minimum-phase filter rather than a linear version, which is disappointing. But I can't hear any difference between minimum and linear phase as long as they're sharp-cutoff, so it's not a big deal.

My DAC has the firmware it came with, which I assume is v1.0, since it exhibits the same problems on Android that have been described previously. Since I'm using it hanging off an old MacBookPro I'm not in a big rush to reflash it to the new version.
 
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lystor

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Any reason to update firmware if I'm only using it with my PC?
WARNING! Don't upgrade the firmware to V3.0 due to the bug with Windows 10 drivers (see above)

Mine works with 3.0 without wasapi or asio. I will test that later.

What driver do you use with V3.0 (Provider / Date / Version / Signer)?

1596886729129.png
 
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charleski

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One other thing: I bought the slightly more expensive iOS version since there's an outside chance I might use my iPad as a transport in the future. The only difference I can see is that the iOS version also comes with a lightning -> micro USB cable, and an MFi certified connector certainly adds cost (similar cables are certainly being sold for a lot more than the ~$5 charged here). I notice that the description on AliX states
2. iOS version have a MFI Certified Chip,but Android version have not .
Q : if i buy a Android version, and i have a lightning cable. Can the Android version work with my iPhone?
A : Not, it can not.
This vaguely suggests that there's more going on than just the extra cable, but I suspect this is just a CYA clause meaning they won't take responsibility for people trying to use this with knockoff cables that don't have Apple's authentication chip. For the record, plugging it into my iPad using the supplied cable works just fine, and there are no popups saying I didn't pay for Apple's blessing. I doubt there's any difference inside the case, but would like to know if anyone has further info.
 

lystor

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One other thing: I bought the slightly more expensive iOS version
They are the same. The difference is in additional cable only.
 

holicst

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May 29, 2020
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WARNING! Don't upgrade the firmware to V3.0 due to the bug with Windows 10 drivers (see above)



What driver do you use with V3.0 (Provider / Date / Version / Signer)?

View attachment 77128

I guess mine works as it uses the Windows driver :D

So then I won't install the Tempotec driver until this gets sorted out...

Btw. I've also tried using it with a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and my AV receiver Onkyo TX SR505... sounds great!
 

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lystor

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I guess mine works as it uses the Windows driver :D
I have annoying clicks / pops on tracks switching (WASAPI) with default usbaudio2 driver.
They are absent when Tempotec driver is used.
 

MiloTheFirst

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Jul 11, 2020
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I ve tried a lot and couldn't get rid of the relay clicks, which is so annoying, thus gone back to the apple dongle. Shame because i think the sonata sounds fantastic with just enough power output for me. I feel i can spot the difference between the two at level matched, which i cannot explain rationally.

Let me try to help you with that

my understanding of the "relay click" is that it is produced by a circuit suddenly turning off and on and that this is usually caused by a change in resistance. Ideally the driver and/or the design of the circuit should be advance enough to tell the DAC to chill and be more patient before changing stages, but I am not a computer engineer so I can not tell how difficult this is to accomplish or whether a better performance require another physical element on the board regardless of the driver. however this doesn't mean there is nothing we can do to avoid it in our end.

so, we should aim to avoid those sudden changes in resistance. I tried to produce the clicks on my end and noticed 2 scenarios. first, when jumping to other time marks while playing a song it could randomly happened. second, when skipping to a different track. by analyzing how I caused them to start happening we can think of counter measures.

the first scenario is very simple, the click wasn't really so random, it occurred when the change of track time was between segments with a huge difference in volume (which makes sense to assume would also cause a huge change in resistance) , we can fix this by enabling smooth seeking (see attached picture).

the second scenario which I believe you are more concerned about is a bit harder to fix, but still easy. on a bit perfect mode we can not really do cross-fading between track so the only thing we can do is make sure the next track loads really quickly. the reason for this is because of the way audio playback works, every time you open a file (this includes skipping to the next track) the player actually seeks the library and then launches the decoder from zero (as if you had just opened the program), if there is no mixing process involved, this result in the bit stream suddenly having to build the buffer from zero. from the DACs perspective since the bit stream suddenly ended, the DAC might as well have ended its job and switch resistance level. to prevent this try setting the buffer size to the lowest possible (so it gets built and sent to the DAC faster) and hopefully just like that it should be fixed. Once you notice there is no click while changing tracks I encourage you to experiment increasing the buffer size little by little, having a low buffer can produce clicks of its own if you ever encounter a situation where your CPU is really busy, since it could queue and therefore delay building the buffer.

if the problem still persist try installing the KS plugin and run that instead of ASIO. Usually we take foobar's ASIO for granted and forget it has not been touched since 2012 and straight out says on its page that it could be bugged. the KS plugin is even older but in theory should have a faster stream than ASIO since it is as direct as it gets. in any case that's the one I use and works fine for me

Untitled.png
 

urfaust

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Let me try to help you with that

my understanding of the "relay click" is that it is produced by a circuit suddenly turning off and on and that this is usually caused by a change in resistance. Ideally the driver and/or the design of the circuit should be advance enough to tell the DAC to chill and be more patient before changing stages, but I am not a computer engineer so I can not tell how difficult this is to accomplish or whether a better performance require another physical element on the board regardless of the driver. however this doesn't mean there is nothing we can do to avoid it in our end.

so, we should aim to avoid those sudden changes in resistance. I tried to produce the clicks on my end and noticed 2 scenarios. first, when jumping to other time marks while playing a song it could randomly happened. second, when skipping to a different track. by analyzing how I caused them to start happening we can think of counter measures.

the first scenario is very simple, the click wasn't really so random, it occurred when the change of track time was between segments with a huge difference in volume (which makes sense to assume would also cause a huge change in resistance) , we can fix this by enabling smooth seeking (see attached picture).

the second scenario which I believe you are more concerned about is a bit harder to fix, but still easy. on a bit perfect mode we can not really do cross-fading between track so the only thing we can do is make sure the next track loads really quickly. the reason for this is because of the way audio playback works, every time you open a file (this includes skipping to the next track) the player actually seeks the library and then launches the decoder from zero (as if you had just opened the program), if there is no mixing process involved, this result in the bit stream suddenly having to build the buffer from zero. from the DACs perspective since the bit stream suddenly ended, the DAC might as well have ended its job and switch resistance level. to prevent this try setting the buffer size to the lowest possible (so it gets built and sent to the DAC faster) and hopefully just like that it should be fixed. Once you notice there is no click while changing tracks I encourage you to experiment increasing the buffer size little by little, having a low buffer can produce clicks of its own if you ever encounter a situation where your CPU is really busy, since it could queue and therefore delay building the buffer.

if the problem still persist try installing the KS plugin and run that instead of ASIO. Usually we take foobar's ASIO for granted and forget it has not been touched since 2012 and straight out says on its page that it could be bugged. the KS plugin is even older but in theory should have a faster stream than ASIO since it is as direct as it gets. in any case that's the one I use and works fine for me

View attachment 77154

Thanks for the time to explain your take on it. It wouldn't bother me so much in regular players like Foobar, but using it on PC there are many other cases where the clicks are quickly unbearable. I m using YT a lot for example, opening several windows/programs, some with different audio contents and the clicks can really get out of hands, sometimes it even produces an error in YT's audio engine (i believe).
But indeed it looks like it's related to swaps and/or piling up different audio signals.

I didn't have this with the khadas board (it's on another install now). i think it's still a great little dongle if you are just listening music continuously on a dedicated player or on the go, but not indicated for general desktop use, unless something manages to fix it.
 

urfaust

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Wow i ve just tried 100ms buffer and no more clicks on my playlist playing on its own, so that's already something. Now from the Sonata dashboard, im gonna try lowering it step by step and see when it becomes clicky again.

Thanks again Milo for the idea, i tried that already in the past but never to the max buffer. Im assuming it really does add 100ms latency too so that would be a little high for video but unconsequent on most of what im doing with it.
 

Cirrus Incus

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May 24, 2020
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I used my Sonata HD with my android phone yesterday for the first time. It worked well, but ever since I've noticed the battery drains much faster than usual even when the DAC is disconnected. Seems to be more than coincidental. Any idea if this it's possible that it activated some function on the phone causing it to consume more power?
 

User52

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Aug 8, 2020
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I got the Sonata HD Pro due to this review, to replace a Fiio E10k, and surprisingly it also fixed an issue I was having- My USB ports on my desktop have dirty power because I have an overclocked GPU and CPU and my motherboard sucks at isolating the voltages despite being a $200+ board. I was using a powered USB hub as a temporary fix the crackles and hiss but hated the extra mess and didnt want to buy a proper isolator or anything. So this $40 tiny DAC has been great so far.

However I am having 'issues', nothing major but my device manager now "iAP Interface" in the "Other Devices" category, and it says its missing a driver. Unplugging the DAC makes said device and issue go away. But I also have a "SONATA USB Audio" in the Sound category, so its at least halfway recognized. I tried to use the new firmware upgrade on their website (the 7/30/2020 firmware), I put in the VID and PID, and followed the unplug and plug procedure and it said it worked but im not sure how to verify it. I did NOT install the old driver for the Sonata HD (not pro model). Thus I am still using the windows driver. PS. This is on Windows 10, both iAP Interface and the Sonata USB Audio device have the same VID and PID.



TLDR; Works, happy with it, but have a mysterious driverless device called "iAP Interface" now, any suggestions?
 
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