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Best bang for the buck subwoofer according to ASR

Bear123

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You are correct, the sub amp gives out.....SVS uses very strict limiters. The SB12 and PB12 NSD are the lowest output subs ever tested on data-bass in the mid and upper bass. As I said, I demo'd in my system and its a case to not knowing what you are missing until you know what you are missing. The NSD subs very unobtrusively stop getting louder quite early....when you replace them with a more capable sub, you realize how much you were lacking.

Here is the PB12 compared to an even cheaper bargain budget sub, the Premier Acoustics PA-150. The PB12 does well 16-30 Hz for the price, but lackluster above that. There is no question.

Having said all that, I agree a pair of SB12's would be a good value for a music only system that would satisfy many people. I personally was able to find the NSD's limits far too easily.
 

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Toroid

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For music only at around $600 each, which sub x2 would you get?

Rythmik L12's
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/L12.html
Or
Tekton 2-10
https://www.tektondesign.com/2-10-sub.html

So far, at $400 each the SVS NSD 12 seem awfully good and are my current front runner. But can't but help wonder if I spend just a bit more if it would be worthwhile (I guess that means noticable in a good way). Should I just be content with the dual SVS?
 

CDMC

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For music only at around $600 each, which sub x2 would you get?

Rythmik L12's
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/L12.html
Or
Tekton 2-10
https://www.tektondesign.com/2-10-sub.html

So far, at $400 each the SVS NSD 12 seem awfully good and are my current front runner. But can't but help wonder if I spend just a bit more if it would be worthwhile (I guess that means noticable in a good way). Should I just be content with the dual SVS?

Rythmik. Servo, known performance. The Tekton while potentially good has too many unknowns.
 
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Toroid

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digitalfrost

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Subwoofers are the easiest speakers to DIY. There are simple to use tools like WinISD. You can simulate everything, since the speakers response around the resonance frequency is easily simulated.

Which is right for you depends on your requirements. How loud should it go, how deep should it go, how much space do you have. You can do anything. Closed box, bassreflex, passive radiator, transmissionline, tapped horn.

It it was me, I'd probably go Peerless XLS 10 with passive radiator....
 
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Toroid

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Well, I want something 'musical' (so, quick or tight bass that is not boomy?) Not sure which measurement this is (distortion?) I am willing to sacrifice total SPL as long as I can get that tight bass flat (or close to flat) down to 20hz. I assume sealed rather than ported is in order. I do prefer a smallish box due to WAF. But would do dual 15s if I can get a killer DIY deal there (painting white would help)
 

MSNWatch

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Well, I want something 'musical' (so, quick or tight bass that is not boomy?) Not sure which measurement this is (distortion?) I am willing to sacrifice total SPL as long as I can get that tight bass flat (or close to flat) down to 20hz. I assume sealed rather than ported is in order. I do prefer a smallish box due to WAF. But would do dual 15s if I can get a killer DIY deal there (painting white would help)

Some myths about subwoofers debunked:

https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/10-nonsense-myths
 
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Toroid

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Thanks for the link. I guess I shouldn't second guess ported. Using sealed for music and ported for HT has been ingrained in me for a long time...
 

CDMC

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The advantage of sealed is it is much more tolerant of mis-sized boxes. Ported you need to make sure the volume is pretty spot on and the port length correct. Both sound excellent when implemented properly.
 
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Toroid

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You guys think I could put together a diy sub that performs better than the SVS NSD 12 for $400?
 

Biblob

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This one look intriguing. After all no replacement for displacement, correct?

I'm also considering DIY (wife got some tool earlier this year - I say put her to work, lol)
What would be the best/highest performing SUB DIY kit under 400?
I am going to build two with CSS SDX10 drivers. They are very capable and $/€200 per driver.
 

bigx5murf

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If you need small sealed with extension. You might want to consider isobaric. Problem with those is huge inefficiency, you need double power to reach same SPL. But you get low extension, and low group delay in return.
 

Dion_Sinewave

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I am going to build two with CSS SDX10 drivers. They are very capable and $/€200 per driver.

I have 4 of these! They’re fantastic. I understood the drivers had technically the lowest distortion you could easily buy
 
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HammerSandwich

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I've seen a lot of praise for the SDX10! Xmax is massive for a 10", and it works in reasonably small boxes, too. Building a powered sub with a $200+ woofer will push the $400 budget, though.

@Toroid, for small/sealed/value, compare Dayton RSS & Ultimax as well as XLS 830452. You could do a pair of smaller Daytons in force-canceling for about the same price as an SDX. You'd move slightly less air but massively reduce vibration.

You'll want DSP.
 

617

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I'm building some speakers which will require subs. I may just use my existing SDX10 in sealed enclosures, but I was also playing with the idea of making a few subs.

Buying subs is great but inexpensive subs do not have the ability to use dsp to filter them so you can integrate them really well. This is a priority for me, so I was considering making a few inexpensive subs controlled by a minidsp and plate amps, or maybe a pro amp with dsp built in.

I made a spreadsheet to get an idea of the best values in subs right now from parts express, basically the ratio of swept volume to price. This ia pretty crude way of assessing subwoofers, but gives some idea of output capabilities:

1576253451953.png

(VDP = xmax * cone area)

As you can see, increasing diameter gives you a ton more output capability - 10" subs which can play loud and deep tend to be a poor value. As a result, despite being expensive, the dayton ultimax 18 has the most output per dollar simply due to the huge cone and 2.2 cm xmax.

It also shows that the buyout Hsu subs are all a great value - I'd go for the 80 dollar drivers. The large dayton classic drivers (15 and 18) also provide a lot of output but will need big boxes.
 

mitchco

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@Toroid I have a pair of Rythmik L12's and F18's. Love the direct servo design - super tight, neutral sounding bass with excellent transient response and no overhang. In sub design, I find there is a difference between quantity versus quality. There is also diy Rythmik, but a little more expensive than your budget.
Rythmik usually have an Xmas sale, which is how I picked up mine...
 

HammerSandwich

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Buying subs is great but inexpensive subs do not have the ability to use dsp to filter them so you can integrate them really well. This is a priority for me, so I was considering making a few inexpensive subs controlled by a minidsp and plate amps, or maybe a pro amp with dsp built in.
Dayton Cheesewoofer + MiniDSP should be a good-value option, too.

Nice work on the spreadsheet. A few comments:
  1. Vd / $ isn't that crude. It's where CotIB starts, and DSP makes many other specs less important.
  2. Isn't Vd usually stated with 1-way Xmax? IOW, UM18 should be 2.6L, not 5.3.
  3. What are the LP drivers?
  4. Hsu 10" probably has a typo on Sd. 349 looks a lot more likely than 394, so ~13% error. Still great value at $40!
  5. Please format the columns so the numbers align. :)
 
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Toroid

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Since I'm leaning DIY, how can I make sure I get the right enclosure for my sub? For instance that 10 inch (SDX10 ) looks really good, but what cabinet will work best with it? Does anyone offer a kit or flat pack for this driver? I think I like passive amps so I can change them out when I need to (But then which amp would go well with this? and Could I use this amp to power both subs?)

What are the best performing Dayton kits for the money at the 10, 12 and 15 inch (sealed) variety?
 
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