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What cables do you use in your systems?

DonH56

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Well, I know it's bit off-topic, but I'm sure Amir is aware of Earth capacitance of almost 1F and the surrounding EMI field generated, so...I'm pretty sure he has a decently engineered Faraday cage to do these measurements for us. Or maybe not? :facepalm:

I hope not! I don't want to have to build a Faraday cage in my listening room, and around each component since they can "infect" each other. I want them all to be in harmony with The Force... :)
 

GeekyBastard

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Well, I know it's bit off-topic, but I'm sure Amir is aware of Earth capacitance of almost 1F and the surrounding EMI field generated, so...I'm pretty sure he has a decently engineered Faraday cage to do these measurements for us. Or maybe not? :facepalm:
Plot twist: Amir lives in a microwave.:eek:
 

cjfrbw

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Ron Texas

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My latest home made speaker wires are 12 ga, stranded, THHN, 800 V max. $17.50 plus sales tax at Home Depot for a 50' spool of single conductor. The strands are much thicker than in special purpose speaker wire, so this stuff does not lay flat without being massaged into place. Polarity is marked with colored tape and black electrical tape every 1' keeps the two wires together. The intended application is wiring RV's and other complex automotive applications. Obviously, it has magical audible properties equal to that of the stuff which sells for $1000 per foot.
 

Blumlein 88

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My latest home made speaker wires are 12 ga, stranded, THHN, 800 V max. $17.50 plus sales tax at Home Depot for a 50' spool of single conductor. The strands are much thicker than in special purpose speaker wire, so this stuff does not lay flat without being massaged into place. Polarity is marked with colored tape and black electrical tape every 1' keeps the two wires together. The intended application is wiring RV's and other complex automotive applications. Obviously, it has magical audible properties equal to that of the stuff which sells for $1000 per foot.
Terminology please.

On audio forums it isn't RV and automotive. It is mobile listening environments. ;)

THHN, 800 volt rated speaker cabling matches the highest levels of the electrical code worldwide. The R&D that resulted in the design of these cables is intended to offer optimum performance in mobile listening environments. These also function with a margin of safety in domestic non-mobile listening. The price/performance ratio of these highly developed cables is a difference you WILL notice. They also are fully recyclable.
 

Ron Texas

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Terminology please.

On audio forums it isn't RV and automotive. It is mobile listening environments. ;)

THHN, 800 volt rated speaker cabling matches the highest levels of the electrical code worldwide. The R&D that resulted in the design of these cables is intended to offer optimum performance in mobile listening environments. These also function with a margin of safety in domestic non-mobile listening. The price/performance ratio of these highly developed cables is a difference you WILL notice. They also are fully recyclable.

It didn't say speaker wire on the spool, but a graphic from the manufacturer indicated "automotive". Hopefully, my house will not become mobile. Just remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house, LOL.
 

Sal1950

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https://www.lessloss.com/dfpc-series-p-213.html
Take a look at this article. Now, if I were uneducated the fancy photoshop graphs and images would be impressive, and I would totally buy a product such as this. Thankfully, I know better by now.
How they can write so much about so little..
But you have to understand, there is so much to be learned here on electromagnetic pollution and it's infiltration of your power line.
Take the time to seriously read about this scientific breakthru. o_Oo_Oo_O:facepalm:
 

Hugo9000

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How they can write so much about so little..
It's like "essay" questions on an exam. Write enough, and eventually you might convince the instructor that you have a wealth of knowledge on the subject. Elegant penmanship and a way with words can get you an "A" even with zero substantive content (in the case of this cable company, the pretty graphics would be the equivalent haha). In the job world, I think they call it "throwing ideas at the board in hope that something will stick." :D
 

The Dragon

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Interconnects: RCA Cables - Mix of Mogami 2497 and Mogami 2803 terminated with KLEI RCA connectors
XLR Cables - Mogami 2549 Neglex terminated with Neutrik Silver plated plugs.

Speaker cable: Cardas Clear Sky

Coax cable: Belden 1505A

USB cable: Pangea

Power cable: Shunyata Anaconda Zitron (main amp), Cardas Twinlink for sources.
 

Panelhead

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Interconnects: BJC Low Capacitance Stereo
USB cable: Corning Optical -> Powered Kensington USB 3 Hub -> No Name USB-A Male to USB-C Male Stub


Try installing a couple stick on heat sinks to extend life of the Corning. They rate them to 55C. They usually last a year.
 

Roen

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Try installing a couple stick on heat sinks to extend life of the Corning. They rate them to 55C. They usually last a year.

I didn't realize they go out that quickly. Jeez.
 

Roen

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Try installing a couple stick on heat sinks to extend life of the Corning. They rate them to 55C. They usually last a year.

I didn't realize they go out that quickly. Jeez.
 

Shadrach

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Hmmm, time for a bit of a giggle.;)
I make my own cables. I've tried a few configurations with various cable types.
Now this cable, absolutely night and day difference. It was like someone had cleaned a window and I could see much deeper into the music.
I changed the mains fuses while I was at it; a small but significant improvement, particularly in the very high notes.
Mains Cable.jpg
:)

Of course the purchasing of the right Hi Fi rack is an absolute must. I was stunned when I listened to my stereo once I had the units in place. Listening to my favorite audiophile test file, Chic-the best of ripped by itunes at 128, I could almost believe I was listening to a redbook version.
Yet another night and day difference.
Yes, I know it's a converted tea trolley!:rolleyes::p
The changes in interconnects, way too many to mention, all made significant improvements to the sound, particularly when I plugged them in.;)
P1000208.jpg


Strangely the speaker stands I made for the loudspeakers which have gone from heavy, to very heavy, over the years did make a huge difference because all the cheap ones I had tried before collapsed under the weight. Of course, I could have bought something similar from one of the Pro audio outlets for around $1000.00.:oops:
Not to be seen in the picture clearly is the hand built distribution box which utilizes the fabled non fused 15 amp round pin plugs and sockets.
Yet a further significant and audible improvement in sound quality; I could almost hear the music now.
I've tried out loads of tweaks, from 'special' capacitors to balanced mains transformers and the thing I found that really made the system shine was remembering to switch the power on.
So I wonder having read on various forums that you should budget for cables as a percentage of the system cost how much should I have spent.
Those bass drivers in those tatty looking boxes cost a bit over $300.00 each; there are two more in the back of those enclosures. The mid range and high frequency units must be at least $150.00 each and the hand built crossover around $350.00 each and none of the above includes the woodwork or the dealer mark up.
The truth is, none of the things I've tried out over the years made an audible difference that I could reliably pick out, except perhaps the speaker stand which stopped the bloody things wobbling about when they got fed a decent amount of watts.
I have read with increasing incredulity over the years the audiophiles claims of 'small but significant improvements' when one thing after another got changed from cables to fuses. Well I would have thought such changes would be cumulative and given enough changes I can only assume that these systems must have been shockingly bad at the outset.
 

Purité Audio

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