maxxevv
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Its a custom case I made. Its not a commercial product.
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Making a Case/Enclosure for the Khadas Tone Board
- Thread starter TimW
- Start date
Its a custom case I made. Its not a commercial product.
It stacks on the Atom very well with this case. About 1/4” on each side and 3/4” on each side front to back.
Speaking of Atom, my "case" for the Khadas Tone Board is a JDS Atom...
Required tools:
* Torx T10 driver
* Drill with 5/32" and 1/2" bits
* Utility knife
* Printed copy of one of the Tone Board templates from https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ase-enclosure-for-the-khadas-tone-board.5054/ (make sure it's printed at 100%!(
Instructions:
1. Remove 4 rubber feet and 4 Torx screws from the bottom of the Atom. Remove the top of the case.
2. Pry off the rear right weight in the Atom case. I just stuck it to the front right weight.
3. Tape the template to the side of the Atom. On mine the center of the rear-most RCA jack is about 13/16" from the back and 9/16" from the top, but you should verify it's positioned such that the Tone Board will fit. Make sure the USB port will clear the front weight, and preferably the board should clear the front right screw hole so you don't have to remove that standoff. The board will probably be up against the Atom's RCA jacks.
4. Mark the 3 RCA jack holes and 3 holes for the USB port with the tip of a knife or awl. Remove the template.
5. Carefully drill the USB port holes with a 5/32" bit (or maybe even 1/8", then enlarge until the right size. Be careful not to drill into the Atom board behind it. Clean up the hole with a utility knife.
6. Carefully drill pilot holes for the 3 RCA jacks (I just used the same 5/32" bit) VERY slowly drill the 1/2" holes for the RCA jacks. No matter how careful I was the bit still grabbed and mangled the plastic a bit, but it turned out ok. A drill press or different type of bit may have helped but I didn't have that. Clean up the holes with a utility knife. Don't worry too much about them being perfect since the rings from the Tone Board will cover a bit of the area around the holes.
7. Test the fit, enlarge holes using drill in whatever direction is necessary until it fits.
8. Remove the screw rings from the RCA jacks, put the board in place, and screw the rings back on until they're tight.
10. Cut off the rear right standoff from the top of the case, and trim down (or cut off) the right front standoff until it fits. I was able to use the utility knife to remove the plastic braces then break the rear one off.
11. Reinstall the top case. Done!
Required tools:
* Torx T10 driver
* Drill with 5/32" and 1/2" bits
* Utility knife
* Printed copy of one of the Tone Board templates from https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ase-enclosure-for-the-khadas-tone-board.5054/ (make sure it's printed at 100%!(
Instructions:
1. Remove 4 rubber feet and 4 Torx screws from the bottom of the Atom. Remove the top of the case.
2. Pry off the rear right weight in the Atom case. I just stuck it to the front right weight.
3. Tape the template to the side of the Atom. On mine the center of the rear-most RCA jack is about 13/16" from the back and 9/16" from the top, but you should verify it's positioned such that the Tone Board will fit. Make sure the USB port will clear the front weight, and preferably the board should clear the front right screw hole so you don't have to remove that standoff. The board will probably be up against the Atom's RCA jacks.
4. Mark the 3 RCA jack holes and 3 holes for the USB port with the tip of a knife or awl. Remove the template.
5. Carefully drill the USB port holes with a 5/32" bit (or maybe even 1/8", then enlarge until the right size. Be careful not to drill into the Atom board behind it. Clean up the hole with a utility knife.
6. Carefully drill pilot holes for the 3 RCA jacks (I just used the same 5/32" bit) VERY slowly drill the 1/2" holes for the RCA jacks. No matter how careful I was the bit still grabbed and mangled the plastic a bit, but it turned out ok. A drill press or different type of bit may have helped but I didn't have that. Clean up the holes with a utility knife. Don't worry too much about them being perfect since the rings from the Tone Board will cover a bit of the area around the holes.
7. Test the fit, enlarge holes using drill in whatever direction is necessary until it fits.
8. Remove the screw rings from the RCA jacks, put the board in place, and screw the rings back on until they're tight.
10. Cut off the rear right standoff from the top of the case, and trim down (or cut off) the right front standoff until it fits. I was able to use the utility knife to remove the plastic braces then break the rear one off.
11. Reinstall the top case. Done!
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maxxevv
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Great utility of space !!
Suggestion:
Get a set of RCA cables with right-angled connectors on one end and straight connectors on the other.
It will keep those cables from sticking out so much on the sides.
A right-angles USB C connector might be useful too.
Suggestion:
Get a set of RCA cables with right-angled connectors on one end and straight connectors on the other.
It will keep those cables from sticking out so much on the sides.
A right-angles USB C connector might be useful too.
maxxevv
Major Contributor
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https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?attachments/img_4217-jpg.23319/
This top cover design is most interesting ! It would allow a stacked-on replacement cover for a Tone Board.
This top cover design is most interesting ! It would allow a stacked-on replacement cover for a Tone Board.
Probably, but I tried for about 30 seconds before I got impatient and gave up.
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I got the board out (which is necessary to add internal wiring to the DAC, since the contacts for the RCA jack are on the bottom). It wasn't easy. You need either:
1. remove the translucent white plastic piece behind the knob (held on by glue) and carefully bend the front and rear of the case to allow you to slide the front of the board out first, then the rear
2. remove the rear panel from the case (held in place by glue), then slide the rear of the board out first, then the front
1. remove the translucent white plastic piece behind the knob (held on by glue) and carefully bend the front and rear of the case to allow you to slide the front of the board out first, then the rear
2. remove the rear panel from the case (held in place by glue), then slide the rear of the board out first, then the front
- Joined
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For any aluminium enclosures required take a look at https://www.kgaenclosures.com/Website/Aluminium/Series2Enclosures.php
Thanks for the followup. Always good to know how to break into these things
A similar effort has just been posted in the JDS thread. They have removed the RCAs from the KTB which makes for easier installation.
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zblackwell
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- Mar 11, 2019
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Was thinking about just drilling 4 holes in a 5.25" aluminum bay in my PC that I'm not using. I'm lazy and have none of these tools lol.
H
Hifihedgehog
Guest
Before I venture to attempt this myself, has anyone already made this into a Front Panel Express file? I don't have access to the tools required to do make this panel in-house so Front Panel Express is what I am planning on doing.
The tools required are pretty basic. If you have a power drill with some normal drill bits then you are pretty much there. Here's what I used
Tools owned
I was very careful to make sure that when I was using the stepped drill bit that the panel was held in place, there was nothing under the area being drilled and that I was drilling as upright/perpendicular as I could. For hand drilling I think that the stepped drill bits are easier to handle. Cheaper alternatives may be available at places such as the much loved/derided Harbor Freight and buying a single stepped drill bit and flat needle file is also possible.
I decided on the DIY aluminium case as I wanted the additional weight and buying the tools was a better option for me as I plan to use them on other projects.
Tools owned
- Hammer
- Hand-held power drill
- Drill bit set - just a standard set of straight drill bits, nothing special
- Stepped drill bits (~$11 on amazon)
- A set of needle files (~$8 from Hobby Lobby after coupon)
I was very careful to make sure that when I was using the stepped drill bit that the panel was held in place, there was nothing under the area being drilled and that I was drilling as upright/perpendicular as I could. For hand drilling I think that the stepped drill bits are easier to handle. Cheaper alternatives may be available at places such as the much loved/derided Harbor Freight and buying a single stepped drill bit and flat needle file is also possible.
I decided on the DIY aluminium case as I wanted the additional weight and buying the tools was a better option for me as I plan to use them on other projects.
H
Hifihedgehog
Guest
Thank you for taking the time to write out all of the instructions as I am sure many others will benefit from it. Now, I would do this, but I actually have little time between my many other extracurricular activities (computer building, soldering projects, managing several websites, volunteering in the community) and my full-time day job to set aside for it. Plus, I do not have an adequate workbench or work area where I would be comfort to have iron shavings go. In fact, outdoors also is not an option given my living arrangements. I do not have a vice, either, so even if I did have a place where I could do this, I would run the risk of misdrilling. So putting that aside, if I go the route of paying for a front panel, there is still the matter of screw holes for the board's standoffs which casts a cloud on me exploring this further. Suffice it to say, I may just risk it and opt for the Audiophonics case after all in the hope that they finally fixed their QC issues.
zblackwell
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I mounted mine in my computer case. Its more of just a lazy way to install it lol.
Finally home!
Very happy for the workmanship, micro blasted, satin-like. Much less for the laser-engraved cover, I haven't fixed it yet, I want to try to do it again with different materials.
Here another failed attempt, but a great coaster.
All in all very happy.
Very happy for the workmanship, micro blasted, satin-like. Much less for the laser-engraved cover, I haven't fixed it yet, I want to try to do it again with different materials.
Here another failed attempt, but a great coaster.
All in all very happy.
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