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Why the fuss with subwoofer specs and brands?

Sancus

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Manual boost for lower frequencies does not work well with Dynamic EQ. At least for me the bass is boosted way too much.
I don't use Dynamic EQ because it has too many weird side effects like messing with surround levels and messing with treble EQ. Also I don't ever use my system much below 80dB average SPL anyways.

But yes, if you do use Dynamic EQ then you'll have to mess with its settings to get your target curve right, since you're at its mercy in terms of bass EQ anyway. This is probably even more work.
 

killdozzer

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You're bad at this game. Here, let me help:
  1. [REL "Magic Musicality"]. On this, I didn't know any better at the time.
:D Just kiddin'!

What sub would you recommend (under $500 / €500) against the criteria I listed?
"BK" It's your local. Very value for money. Be honest, you're regretting white piano already anyway, eh?
 

rcstevensonaz

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"BK" It's your local. Very value for money. Be honest, you're regretting white piano already anyway, eh?
Thanks for recommendation on BK. Looks interesting and would meet the budget target very well. But for some reason, they never seem to show up very much in my readings on subs; though likely in part because they don't seem to target the USA market.

Still dig the white — does a far better job disappearing into the room than a black box would.
 

krabapple

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Hm. I wrote an article a while back on the topic, perhaps worth reading through: https://www.sigbergaudio.no/blogs/news/audyssey-room-calibration-common-mistakes

Nitpick time. In your article you write under 'Crossover'
Your receiver measures what your speakers are capable of, and configures the crossover accordingly.

I'd say the number the AVR comes up with is not necessarily what the speakers 'are capable of'. It's measuring the room + speaker at the main listening position. So if there is a boundary wall effect boosting the bass output of a given speaker, the AVR may 'think' the speaker goes lower than it 'really' does (as determined by its anaechoic -3dB FR point) and recommend a lower crossover. If this is the case it's another good reason to ignore that and just use 80 Hz instead.
 

sigbergaudio

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Nitpick time. In your article you write under 'Crossover'


I'd say the number the AVR comes up with is not necessarily what the speakers 'are capable of'. It's measuring the room + speaker at the main listening position. So if there is a boundary wall effect boosting the bass output of a given speaker, the AVR may 'think' the speaker goes lower than it 'really' does (as determined by its anaechoic -3dB FR point) and recommend a lower crossover. If this is the case it's another good reason to ignore that and just use 80 Hz instead.

I agree in part. First of all, I would say it's the actual response in the room that matters. If you have boundary / room gain, great! That being said, I do agree that receivers often set the crossover lower than what is optimal. This is what I diplomatically hint at in the next sentence where I write: "That's not necessarily the best choice of crossover. Typically, you will get a much better bass response if you relieve your speakers of the deepest bass, even if you have pretty large speakers." :)

In the next paragraph I also explicitly recommend a higher crossover even if the AVR suggests 40 or 60hz.
 

krabapple

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If you have boundary / room gain, great!

You won't know what the *quality* of that 'extra' bass is, simply from calibration measurement. So I wouldn't use the word 'capable'

Better to use what the speakers themselves are proven to do well. ..assuming there are proper measured response specs to go by.

(And to pick further nit, the best xover could actually be lower than 80, and it might sound better than offloading to the sub at 80....if the speaker is truly capable, and room acoustics stars align. You can always bump it up if a higher xover sounds better)
 

sigbergaudio

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You won't know what the *quality* of that 'extra' bass is, simply from calibration measurement. So I wouldn't use the word 'capable'

Better to use what the speakers themselves are proven to do well. ..assuming there are proper measured response specs to go by.

(And to pick further nit, the best xover could actually be lower than 80, and it might sound better than offloading to the sub at 80....if the speaker is truly capable, and room acoustics stars align. You can always bump it up if a higher xover sounds better)

I would be interested to hear how the AVR is supposed to know the anechoic response of the speaker.

With regards to the nitpicking, the article is meant as an article to help relative novice users get through audyssey with what will hopefully be a decent result, users who are not likely to know or care to look up the specs of their speakers. If it were to cover all ifs and buts, the target audience wouldn't get through the article.

Users like yourself obviously don't need the article at all, so if you know more than what the article covers, feel free to move on. :)
 

krabapple

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I would be interested to hear how the AVR is supposed to know the anechoic response of the speaker.

Of course I never said, or implied, that an AVR could do that. That information has to come to the user from another source. It *could* even be the information supplied to the consumer by the speaker manufacturer.

'Capable' remains the inaccurate word to use. It's an easy thing to fix. But it's your site.
 

sigbergaudio

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Of course I never said, or implied, that an AVR could do that. That information has to come to the user from another source. It *could* even be the information supplied to the consumer by the speaker manufacturer.

'Capable' remains the inaccurate word to use. It's an easy thing to fix. But it's your site.

What would you propose?
 

krabapple

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Optional text in italics

Receivers do not actually measure the lowest frequency that a speaker is designed to output. (Honest manufacturers report that number in their specs, using standardized professional measurement gear and procedures.) Instead, a receiver measures the lowest frequency it 'hears' with its calibration mic at your listening position: a combination of speaker output, plus room acoustic effects of speaker position. Placement close to a wall, for example, can boost weakly output low bass frequencies. In such case, the 'crossover' frequency the receiver reports for the speaker will be too low, and using that number will send bass frequencies to the speaker that it is not designed to easily handle.
 

Dal1as

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The low frequency extensuon of a speaker varies depending on the room. I would think the anechoic response means little when choosing the crossover setting in a small room setting.
 
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jsilvela

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I’ve been doing a lot of experiments.
While I don’t manage to make the sub crawl work for me, because I don’t know how to “check for doneness” by ear, I have been taking REW readings on a lot of configurations. And that prompted me to reorient my hifi set and completely reorganize my living room, resulting in better sound even from my mains.
I have found this to be true:
Of course, the final caveat is key: once you find locations that sound good, you will ideally place your Subs in those spots. But you have to keep an open mind to where the room acoustics tell you will be good placements and not what you want aesthetically.

After the reorientation, Denon AVR / Audyssey MultiEQ still do *not* do a good job of taming LF room modes, but anyhow the modes are less severe; nothing *jumps* at you as it did in my previous listening position.

Audyssey is doing a great job of setting the level for the REL sub. You could calibrate the sub that way more reliably than by ear, which seems to lead easily to a timid setting of the sub gain.
E.g. in one test I was getting the sub attenuated 9dB by the AVR. So I took REW readings, set the attenuation on the AVR to 0dB, and turned down the gain knob on the sub until I matched the previous response curve.

REL are honest. For the T/5x, the spec says -6dB at 32 Hz. While I don’t have precise measurement gear, that meshes with my experience.
That seems to be normal with an 8” driver in a sealed box. For comparison, the Kef Kube 8b specifies 34 to 140Hz (-6dB) … btw the Kef 8b is quite a bit cheaper than the REL T/5x.

My mains got nearly as low though, so the sub has not given me much *extension*. But having the sub with its placement flexibility, and bass management with a 80hz crossover, are resulting in better bass than just the mains, noticeably.
If I had taken measurements with REW before the purchase, and had had more of a clue, I think I would have gone for a 10” or 12” sub.
Since I’m seeing lots of tips to get two subs to even out room response, I may go for a 10” Kef sometime soon and use the 8” as the “secondary”.

Looking back at my initial message, though:
Is recommending 12-inch SVS’s to people with a small room akin to recommending 4-wheel-drive vehicles with high horsepower to urbanites?
In a way, I think that is a little true. Those 12" boxes, and especially the ported models, are bulky and noticeable.
Many people getting their first sub probably just want "better bass" in general, not necessarily to go down to 14Hz or get 105dB peak at 20Hz.

If I were advising a friend, I would tell them to get a mic + REW first.
I think many many people would be well served by a 10" model. And for people with bookshelf mains rolling down at 60Hz say, an 8" would make a very clear difference.
 
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Chrispy

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I’ve been doing a lot of experiments.
While I don’t manage to make the sub crawl work for me, because I don’t know how to “check for doneness” by ear, I have been taking REW readings on a lot of configurations. And that prompted me to reorient my hifi set and completely reorganize my living room, resulting in better sound even from my mains.
I have found this to be true:


After the reorientation, Denon AVR / Audyssey MultiEQ still do *not* do a good job of taming LF room modes, but anyhow the modes are less severe; nothing *jumps* at you as it did in my previous listening position.

Audyssey is doing a great job of setting the level for the REL sub. You could calibrate the sub that way more reliably than by ear, which seems to lead easily to a timid setting of the sub gain.
E.g. in one test I was getting the sub attenuated 9dB by the AVR. So I took REW readings, set the attenuation on the AVR to 0dB, and turned down the gain knob on the sub until I matched the previous response curve.

REL are honest. For the T/5x, the spec says -6dB at 32 Hz. While I don’t have precise measurement gear, that meshes with my experience.
That seems to be normal with an 8” driver in a sealed box. For comparison, the Kef Kube 8b specifies 34 to 140Hz (-6dB) … btw the Kef 8b is quite a bit cheaper than the REL T/5x.

My mains got nearly as low though, so the sub has not given me much *extension*. But having the sub with its placement flexibility, and bass management with a 80hz crossover, are resulting in better bass than just the mains, noticeably.
If I had taken measurements with REW before the purchase, and had had more of a clue, I think I would have gone for a 10” or 12” sub.
Since I’m seeing lots of tips to get two subs to even out room response, I may go for a 10” Kef sometime soon and use the 8” as the “secondary”.

Looking back at my initial message, though:

In a way, I think that is a little true. Those 12" boxes, and especially the ported models, are bulky and noticeable.
Many people getting their first sub probably just want "better bass" in general, not necessarily to go down to 14Hz or get 105dB peak at 20Hz.

If I were advising a friend, I would tell them to get a mic + REW first.
I think many many people would be well served by a 10" model. And for people with bookshelf mains rolling down at 60Hz say, an 8" would make a very clear difference.
Which version of Audyssey did you use and any external help like the editor app or the MultiEQ-X app/gear? I can't imagine being stuck with less than a 10" driver myself, and having had 8", no use for those. I don't have your small rooms perhaps.
 

bodhi

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Which version of Audyssey did you use and any external help like the editor app or the MultiEQ-X app/gear? I can't imagine being stuck with less than a 10" driver myself, and having had 8", no use for those. I don't have your small rooms perhaps.
This is with dual opposed 9" in a 30m2 room.

rew.jpg
 

bodhi

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This is relevant particularly how? How about 105 db?

I think the same sub has been measured at something like 103-105dB @teens by Sparechange, I have the screenshot of the measurement in this thread somewhere.

I haven't measured that because I have never even approached the limits, that measurement is with subs 25%. But I'll do it tomorrow.
 

Chrispy

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I think the same sub has been measured at something like 103-105dB @teens by Sparechange, I have the screenshot of the measurement in this thread somewhere.

I haven't measured that because I have never even approached the limits, that measurement is with subs 25%. But I'll do it tomorrow.
Have no idea what you mean by 25%, let alone the other stuff, you sound more like you have no clue.
 

bodhi

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Have no idea what you mean by 25%, let alone the other stuff, you sound more like you have no clue.
That's what my ex-wife always told me. She wasn't as emotional about inches though, that's why we had some good times also.

Are you perhaps compensating something with your subs? Remember, size doesn't really matter.
 

Chrispy

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That's what my ex-wife always told me. She wasn't as emotional about inches though, that's why we had some good times also.

Are you perhaps compensating something with your subs? Remember, size doesn't really matter.
Start perhaps with definition of "25%"....then we can see if you're simply insufficient.
 
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