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BEST 10inch subwoofer for sealed enclosure?

sloth_kwj

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I'm dreaming to build ultimate DIY speaker. Planning in 1-2 years so there would be many options.
For now, I'm just roughly designing the concept (I knew it the "DESIGN" is most hard part..)

As my concept design, bliesma T25b, M74b and purifi ptt8.0 are used and looking for good side subwoofer. (currently seas l26roy)
It will be crossed at aprox. 3khz, 1khz, 80hz which are fully changeable by directivity and other considerations. Hypex fusion 253 or 503 for plate amp. Tweeter and midrange will be grouped because of lack of channels in plate amp and will be crossed by passive crossover. In M74b, of course notch filter will used for treat 15db of brake-up in 15khz. So, hybrid crossover.
Design reference is KH420 but in 8inch woofer version with side sub.
I had considered side DOS but width was not enough for two subs.

Please give me many advices about unit selection and "DESIGN"... I want to make it beautiful...:p


IMG_0078.PNG
 

-Matt-

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Looks like a fun project.

I'm not a speaker designer so could be completely wrong but...

Since you are adding side subwoofers I guess you want these to be full range (without an external sub). If that is the case wouldn't you need a larger volume cabinet? (Someone else will probably know the maths on this). Have you considered a tower type design rather than a bookshelf? (I'm assuming that the image you added is a sketch of your current design and I can't tell the scale, but it looks like a bookshelf speaker).
 

voodooless

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Dayton RSS265HE-22 comes to mind, or UM10 as a cheaper option, or get two 10” PR’s with the 8” Purify.
 

Tangband

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I'm dreaming to build ultimate DIY speaker. Planning in 1-2 years so there would be many options.
For now, I'm just roughly designing the concept (I knew it the "DESIGN" is most hard part..)

As my concept design, bliesma T25b, M74b and purifi ptt8.0 are used and looking for good side subwoofer. (currently seas l26roy)
It will be crossed at aprox. 3khz, 1khz, 80hz which are fully changeable by directivity and other considerations. Hypex fusion 253 or 503 for plate amp. Tweeter and midrange will be grouped because of lack of channels in plate amp and will be crossed by passive crossover. In M74b, of course notch filter will used for treat 15db of brake-up in 15khz. So, hybrid crossover.
Design reference is KH420 but in 8inch woofer version with side sub.
I had considered side DOS but width was not enough for two subs.

Please give me many advices about unit selection and "DESIGN"... I want to make it beautiful...:p


View attachment 212129
Interesting projekt :).

I have a couple of question .

1. I would go active in every freq register. A 4 or 5 way floorstander is almost without compromises regarding beaming and directivity in a normal room. If youre not extraordinary talented in building passive crossovers - dont even think you can outdo a good active dsp crossover regarding sound quality.
I would build modules - maybe three boxes stacked ontop of eachother.

2. Why using those drivers? - its all about what your goal is with the project. A cheap, good driver easily beats an expensive one if the implementation are good.

3. Consider the crossoverpoints and consider building two floorstanders instead . With your projekt picture, you will need a stand anyway, and two 10 inch closed box drivers in small boxes ARE a big sound compromise. Why dont you set up some goals before the project and answer this for yourself :

Max spl
freq. response within +- ? dB
size of the speaker
directivity
Total price

That said- building something is great fun but your speaker will be almost wortheless when you later sell them , regardless of how good they sound.
Dont expect to equal the sound of a Genelec 8351 or such , they have the skills and measuring tools to do reference speakers and we dont.

If you go ahead and start building , my advice for you is to have a reference loudspeaker you can borrow , doing measurements and compare the sound. I did that when I was doing DIY , and I ended up buying a Genelec.

Here is a good thread:
 
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Tangband

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For a three way active loudspeaker ( floorstanding ) I would use in each speaker:

SB adc26 with a waveguide
SB 15 NBAC mid
Two peerless XLS 10 in a 40 liters closed box bass cabinet with Linkwitz transformer

The speaker would be about 32 cm wide and 105 cm high .

crossovers would be like 2,2 kHz , 200 Hz - 2,2 KHz, and 20 - 200 Hz

The volume in liters for each loudspeaker would be only like 50 liters internal, so maybe a big standmount speaker with the SB drivers at the front and the xlr subs on the sides ? But you will need stands in this case.
 
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voodooless

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Thanks for good suggestion! Klippel data on website and outstanding performance. Do yo know aprox price for pair?
These?


Buy why? The Purify already has more Xmax, is just a bit smaller. You’d need a real monster 10” to be much better than the Purifi.
 
OP
sloth_kwj

sloth_kwj

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Interesting projekt :).

I have a couple of question .

1. I would go active in every freq register. A 4 or 5 way floorstander is almost without compromises regarding beaming and directivity in a normal room. If youre not extraordinary talented in building passive crossovers - dont even think you can outdo a good active dsp crossover regarding sound quality.
I would build modules - maybe three boxes stacked ontop of eachother.

2. Why using those drivers? - its all about what your goal is with the project. A cheap, good driver easily beats an expensive one if the implementation are good.

3. Consider the crossoverpoints and consider building two floorstanders instead . With your projekt picture, you will need a stand anyway, and two 10 inch closed box drivers in small boxes ARE a big sound compromise. Why dont you set up some goals before the project and answer this for yourself :

Max spl
freq. response within +- ? dB
size of the speaker
directivity
Total price

That said- building something is great fun but your speaker will be almost wortheless when you later sell them , regardless of how good they sound.
Dont expect to equal the sound of a Genelec 8351 or such , they have the skills and measuring tools to do reference speakers and we dont.

If you go ahead and start building , my advice for you is to have a reference loudspeaker you can borrow , doing measurements and compare the sound. I did that when I was doing DIY , and I ended up buying a Genelec.

Here is a good thread:
1. I'll use hybrid crossover. Hypex Fusion plate amp + passive for midrange and tweeter. I already know had experienced good result with this approach.

2. As I heard Bliesma T25B with 'Panda' made by @Jason K , tweeter sound was amazing. And I always go crazy with 'midrange dome'. So I picked M74B which show best measurements. But in woofer, I was looking for low distortion use for 1khz-80khz at max. As a result, I think Purifi ptt8.0 is best for use. It could be changeable. And lastly subwoofer, SEAS has nice measurement but it is really depend on total design. It just used for example modeling.

3. My reference model is KH420. I don't think floorstand speakers are suitable in small Korean room. I set aprox crossover point at 3khz, 1khz, 80hz according to unit's datas and it is changeable due to waveguides, distances between units, directivity etc.


 
OP
sloth_kwj

sloth_kwj

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Dayton RSS265HE-22 comes to mind, or UM10 as a cheaper option, or get two 10” PR’s with the 8” Purify.
Thanks for recommend. I think you mean HO, right? I saw Dayton reference subwoofers are beast. I have to find out differences between HO,HF,HFA..
 
OP
sloth_kwj

sloth_kwj

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These?


Buy why? The Purify already has more Xmax, is just a bit smaller. You’d need a real monster 10” to be much better than the Purifi.
Exactly what I'm looking for:)
 

Tangband

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1. I'll use hybrid crossover. Hypex Fusion plate amp + passive for midrange and tweeter. I already know had experienced good result with this approach.

2. As I heard Bliesma T25B with 'Panda' made by @Jason K , tweeter sound was amazing. And I always go crazy with 'midrange dome'. So I picked M74B which show best measurements. But in woofer, I was looking for low distortion use for 1khz-80khz at max. As a result, I think Purifi ptt8.0 is best for use. It could be changeable. And lastly subwoofer, SEAS has nice measurement but it is really depend on total design. It just used for example modeling.

3. My reference model is KH420. I don't think floorstand speakers are suitable in small Korean room. I set aprox crossover point at 3khz, 1khz, 80hz according to unit's datas and it is changeable due to waveguides, distances between units, directivity etc.


If you intend to use closed box for the subwoofers with linkwitz transformer - I recommend a low fs , low Qts driver like the peerless xls 10 inch . Its cheaper than the seas Roy, but just as good .
 

jaakkopetteri

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You might also consider the SW26DBAC76-8 from SB Acoustics. Very similar to the Peerless XLS but a bit flatter in response so less transforming required, for what it's worth. I don't know about distortion but it's been used by several pretty decent companies
 

voodooless

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If you intend to use closed box for the subwoofers with linkwitz transformer - I recommend a low fs , low Qts driver like the peerless xls 10 inch .
There is one issue with these, and that is power handling. 150W isn’t that much, and with the low Qts you’ll need plenty of power to reach the Xmax.
 

jhaider

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I had considered side DOS but width was not enough for two subs.

Look at the SB Acoustics shallow subwoofer if you want to rethink dual opposed. It’s a really nice woofer designed for tiny cabinets.

Aurasound NS10-794-4a is probably the “best” 10” subwoofer driver yet made, but they’re long out of production. I’d look at the ScanSpeak Discovery or Tymphany SDF in current drivers. Also CSS’s XBL model.
 

Tangband

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There is one issue with these, and that is power handling. 150W isn’t that much, and with the low Qts you’ll need plenty of power to reach the Xmax.
True, but for the price you can buy two for each channel , compared to the Seas r0y.
 
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