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Pioneer VSX-LX505 (with Dirac) Unboxing and Overview

Flak

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Hi @Flak
Can you maybe also confirm if it will be available to the Windows/Mac Processor too? (I mean what is now officially called the Dirac Live® Room Correction Suite).
So in other words will people with the software only on Windows and Mac be able to benefit from the new feature or only those with an AVR hardware?
Thank you
No, I expect that the new feature will be available for the software-only version as well
 

Bergarth

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Hey so late to the thread but does DIrac with this Pioneer also correct suybs? Be a shame if you had to pay extra.
 

dlaloum

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These AVR's (Pioneer, Onkyo,Integra) - only have a single Sub output - the two outputs at the back are in fact identical (built in Y adapter!)

Yes it corrects that sub output - but no it has no ability to optimise multiple subs.

(Quite a few of us think/hope that this capability will be present with the flagship releases this year - LX705/LX905, RZ70/90, DRX 7.4/9.4)
 

Chrisfi

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So I have the Pioneer 305 and am a noob with Dirac. In fact, I’m a pretty big noob with home theater in general. But anyway, I have a 5.1 setup with a Rythmik FV18. I used UMIK-1 mic to calibrate with Dirac and after adjusting the physical sub volume dial to about 1’o clock, I got it to set my trim at 7.5 dB which I read is within the range you want it. Weird though, as my old Denon AVR set my old sub (FV15) to around 11dB with dial at 12’o clock. I actually had to lower the dial to get it to set the trim lower. It seems the Pioneer thinks my FV18 is weaker than my FV15. Anyway, I’m wondering how hot can I set the sub trim without blowing anything up or getting clipping? Can I run it +7.5 dB to 0 without issues? I’ve been running it at that and it sounds quite good. But it sounded even better with +10 dB trim.
 

dlaloum

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So I have the Pioneer 305 and am a noob with Dirac. In fact, I’m a pretty big noob with home theater in general. But anyway, I have a 5.1 setup with a Rythmik FV18. I used UMIK-1 mic to calibrate with Dirac and after adjusting the physical sub volume dial to about 1’o clock, I got it to set my trim at 7.5 dB which I read is within the range you want it. Weird though, as my old Denon AVR set my old sub (FV15) to around 11dB with dial at 12’o clock. I actually had to lower the dial to get it to set the trim lower. It seems the Pioneer thinks my FV18 is weaker than my FV15. Anyway, I’m wondering how hot can I set the sub trim without blowing anything up or getting clipping? Can I run it +7.5 dB to 0 without issues? I’ve been running it at that and it sounds quite good. But it sounded even better with +10 dB trim.
Once you have the Sub channel level set to match the mains and surrounds - so they all are at the same reference level - then you should adjust trim using the Target Curve in Dirac.

From the sound of it, you want a harman +10db curve - download that, and use it...

I thought the Harman curve was too flat - mid to high's - so I added a downward tilt... and I used the mildest Harman curve : +4db
 

Chrisfi

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Once you have the Sub channel level set to match the mains and surrounds - so they all are at the same reference level - then you should adjust trim using the Target Curve in Dirac.

From the sound of it, you want a harman +10db curve - download that, and use it...

I thought the Harman curve was too flat - mid to high's - so I added a downward tilt... and I used the mildest Harman curve : +4db

So it’s better to use the harman curve and not touch the AVR trim?
 

Chrisfi

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Once you have the Sub channel level set to match the mains and surrounds - so they all are at the same reference level - then you should adjust trim using the Target Curve in Dirac.
This is what Dirac does automatically right? After running Dirac they should all be at same reference level?
 

dlaloum

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This is what Dirac does automatically right? After running Dirac they should all be at same reference level?

Part of the Dirac setup process, involves a preliminary stage where you set the levels for each of the speakers ... the PC app, monitors the mic conneced to the AVR, and place at the MLP...

You set the Mic gain, the master gain (all channels) and the individual gain for each speaker - your objective is to get them into the optimum range for Dirac to work and do its magic, but at the same time, the closer the level matching, the less Dirac has to do (and therefore the better the chance of optimal results)
 

Chrisfi

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Part of the Dirac setup process, involves a preliminary stage where you set the levels for each of the speakers ... the PC app, monitors the mic conneced to the AVR, and place at the MLP...

You set the Mic gain, the master gain (all channels) and the individual gain for each speaker - your objective is to get them into the optimum range for Dirac to work and do its magic, but at the same time, the closer the level matching, the less Dirac has to do (and therefore the better the chance of optimal results)
Right. Yeah I understand all that. You try to get all the speakers equally matched. Except for the subwoofer, right? You leave that alone during this phase and either use one of the Harmon curves post calibration or bump up the gain on the avr?
 

Chrisfi

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I’m having a weird issue. I have a new subwoofer from Rythmik and have been using it with this AVR for a few weeks now without any issues. The other night I accidentally engaged Spotify on my phone and it automatically awaken my basement home theater and the volume was near full blast. I was upstairs at the time and immediately turned it off. The next morning when I turned my system back on I noticed a constant low level static noise from the subwoofer as well as the front left and right speakers. The static noise from the subwoofer will also intermittently get louder every 10 seconds or so. I can hear this from my main listening position. It’s inaudible while watching actual content and everything sounds fine-no crackles pops or static can be heard while audio is playing. When I remove the RCA cable from the subwoofer, while it is still powered on, the noise goes away. While I’m switching inputs on the avr, the noise also goes away. Does this sound like something is up with the receiver or possibly my subwoofer?
 

Chrisfi

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I’m having a weird issue. I have a new subwoofer from Rythmik and have been using it with this AVR for a few weeks now without any issues. The other night I accidentally engaged Spotify on my phone and it automatically awaken my basement home theater and the volume was near full blast. I was upstairs at the time and immediately turned it off. The next morning when I turned my system back on I noticed a constant low level static noise from the subwoofer as well as the front left and right speakers. The static noise from the subwoofer will also intermittently get louder every 10 seconds or so. I can hear this from my main listening position. It’s inaudible while watching actual content and everything sounds fine-no crackles pops or static can be heard while audio is playing. When I remove the RCA cable from the subwoofer, while it is still powered on, the noise goes away. While I’m switching inputs on the avr, the noise also goes away. Does this sound like something is up with the receiver or possibly my subwoofer?

I swapped out the receiver and the issue was resolved. Still get low level static noise but it's constant now which I believe is normal. Does not get intermittently louder anymore. I was also getting some weird pops when switching inputs occasional which is now also resolved. Definitely something was up with the old receiver.

Do the Pioneers have full range dirac live correction built in? I just read that the Onkyo models have full range.
 

dlaloum

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I swapped out the receiver and the issue was resolved. Still get low level static noise but it's constant now which I believe is normal. Does not get intermittently louder anymore. I was also getting some weird pops when switching inputs occasional which is now also resolved. Definitely something was up with the old receiver.

Do the Pioneers have full range dirac live correction built in? I just read that the Onkyo models have full range.
The Pioneers, Onkyos and Integras all have pretty much the same features....

I am running an Integra 3.4
 
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The new Dirac stuff is cool. Looking forward to measurements of the LX-505 by AmirM to compare to the LX-504. I'd also like to occasionally read some impressions about these receivers as used in a real-life setup. Is the clipping in the LX-504 previously reviewed a defect and/or how does it present itself in real life? The LX-305 reviewed well on a listening-type review, same as RZ-50 which also measured somewhat poorly IIRC. My head spins as my 12 year old "garbage" VSX-820 has been driving large electrostatics for 12 years and it sounds as good today as it did when I pulled the Bedini amplifier that I used for 12 years prior. There was little difference between the amps performance and they were rated similarly (~80w/ch @ 8 ohms 2-ch driven.) Now I am driving 5 speakers to 100dB levels before the sound gets congested. Since I now want to use 4 Atmos speakers now I'm looking to update my receiver. I'm on a 12-year cycle apparently. :D
 

StLouisRod

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Got my LX505 late 2021, and it has updated firmware at least once since then. Figure I'd post my impressions, and issues, for what it's worth. I would STILL like to know what DAC its using, though I can't say I'm disappointed with it's sound. But considering its predecessor faired quite poorly on this site, I am curious.

Overall, it has been a fairly frustrating affair to get the unit just to do what my 15 year old Sony A/V did with ease, much less the more advanced features. On more than one occasion I'd make an innocent change to a setting (i.e. change from 5.1 to 7.1 speaker config), which caused the unit to stop displaying an image on the HDMI output, regardless of input source chosen. Trying the soft resets did nothing. Only unplugging the unit for 30 seconds, turning back on, then off again (standby), then on, finally got it back to working.

  • Getting Zone 2 just to output whatever source was playing requires using the hidden buttons under the front flap, and gets turned off at seemingly random times, which is frustrating.
  • To avoid that annoyance, I tried just using the left/right pre-amp outs for my external amp music, but the signal level was MUCH lower than the Zone 2 outputs, making them virtually useless for that purpose. Many reviews center on the output voltage of the pre-amps, and I have to assume this one is woefully low. But I didn't measure them.
  • MCACC calibration always sets my twin subwoofers 6db too low, and also sets my mains as large, when they operate much better as small (80hz crossover). It also sets the EQ on the various speakers improperly to compensate for the "large" setting, which I then have to undo manually. Kind of defeats the purpose of "auto" calibration.
  • I also then tried Dirac Live calibration, but it sounded awful, likely because I didn't first reset the MCACC settings (which of course is NOT mentioned in the manual).
  • HDMI inputs 1-3 (the non-8k ones) will NOT send my Oppo BDP-103 (1080p) blu-ray PCM audio in anything but STEREO. However, plugging it into 4-6 does allow surround sound.
  • Only the 1-3 inputs will output to Zone 2, which means my 4k Roku playing hi-rez music, youtube music, etc. into input 4 can NOT be sent to my other room.
  • On the plus side, it runs cool inside my console cabinet with only 2 inches of air clearance above it. I still installed a 4" fan in the back of the cabinet to pull the warm air out, powered by a custom cable I made plugged into the low amperage (.25A) programmable trigger output. And why so LOW? Even though the fan is rated at .175 amps, the trigger just BARELY gets it started. However, even with the fan off, it ran fairly cool. This can't be said for many of the other competing A/V units, from the reviews I've read/watched. And no, I can't use the high (1 Amp) trigger for the fan, because I'm already using it to power my A/R wireless audio transmitter, which needs far more amperage to operate than a tiny fan.
 
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valerianf

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I'm already using it to power my A/R wireless audio transmitter
What is the model of wireless audio transmitter that you use?
Thank you for the review: it does not seems that the LX505 is a game changer.
 
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After re-reading the LX504 and RZ-50 reviews, I note they both current limit early at 4 ohms (~33 watts output power) and there's no reason to believe that the LX505 would be any different.

I don't know why those evaluating the Pioneer/Onkyo units in AV systems don't note the power limiting, but I do know my electrostats are 4 ohms nominal and less than that at I think 400Hz (3.5 ohms?) and 20kHz (1.6 ohms.) If a new 120 Watt 4 ohm rated AV receiver can't power the same speakers that my 12 year old 5-channel lowly $300 80W 6 ohm rated VSX-820 can, then I'm gonna lose my ****.
 

BJL

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I've had the LX-505 for about three months, set up as 7.1.4, and I am quite happy with it. I am using it for music only.

Some points - contrary to StLouisRed, I do get surround sound from HDMI inputs 1-3, this with an Oppo 105D and a Sony X800M2.

I did not find it difficult to set up, although like all equipment, it has idiosyncrasies.

One great feature - there is a listening mode "mono" which directs the audio to your center channel speaker. This is a boon for anyone who has a collection of monaural recordings. Mono recordings played through a single speaker sound substantially better than the more usual playback through the front L/R, or even worse, the horrible mono upmixed to multiple speakers. Center speaker playback is, at least for me, a lot nicer than using either the left or right.

I got excellent results with Dirac Live. I used the Dirac desktop app and a third party mic (UMIK-2). I did not bother with the built in version. There are three slots so it is possible to have filter sets with three different target curves. The only inconvenience is, if you change the speaker designations (such as switching a speaker from Top Front to Top Middle), the Dirac filters will be deleted, but if you saved your measurements they can easily be reloaded for any given set of speaker designations. I did not try the MCACC calibration at all, it conflicts with Dirac and seems pointless to me.

The "Direct" setting is excellent, it engages Dirac processing, speaker trims and the equalizer (which I found generally useless) but bypasses upmixing and other DSP processing; the AVR will decode the exact channel arrangement of the source.

There is an iPhone app that provides access to everything that the remote has and much more, including rapid access to playback from a USB device. The speaker trims setting accessed through the app are persistent, meaning they do not change, even if the unit is completely powered off (unplugged).

From my experience, this is a terrific receiver for anyone on a budget who wants Dirac Live and up to 7.1.4 or 7.2.4, and the Mono playback feature is invaluable for anyone that has a collection of monaural recordings, or, I suppose, older films with a mono soundtrack. I compared this at home with a Denon 3700 (which I returned) and an Integra (also returned).
 
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I compared this at home with a Denon 3700 (which I returned)

Thanks for your review. Can you comment on the differences and why you prefer the LX505 over the currently popular x3700h receiver?
 
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