Help with DAC , AMP/Dac , ex or intern soundcard decision.

[ZolaIII]

@Psypuuh I ment classic IR remote control.
There are people who want; LDAC, EQ-DSP, Dolby support, physically rotary volume controls, tactile buttons, MQA... shape and colour among other things.
And you can not have it all however you can get a good sound quality and see what you need from mentioned (and not mentioned) and purchase accordingly.

 

[Psypuuh]

Weird... That shouldn't be happening... Maybe there's some kind of "sound enhancement" applied in Windows, or sometimes the soundcard/soundchip has a driver utility for processing/enhancing the sound. One of my laptops has a setting for killing the bass when you're listening to the built-in speakers and you have to turn it off when using headphones or external speakers. And there are sometimes optional "spatial" effects, or EQ, etc., that can alter the sound

A few other things that CAN happen:

- You can get noise. In that case an external DAC will help. But it should have its own power supply because USB power is often noisy and sometimes the noise leaks-into the analog side of the DAC. Of course an external headphone amp (without a DAC) would amplify any existing noise.

- The built-in headphone amplifier might not have enough power to get the desired loudness (without distortion) with your particular headphones. If the sound quality is OK at lower levels, an external amplifier is all you need.

- If the built-in-headphone amplifier's output impedance is not low enough (relative to headphone impedance) the headphone impedance (which is not constant across the frequency-range) will "interact" with the output impedance and cause (usually minor) frequency response variations. In that case again, an amplifier is all you need. That's probably not an issue with 48-Ohm headphones.



.P.S.
Are you sure you're happy? Have you plugged them into something else? If they are new they should be OK, but a broken ground connection can cause a weird "vocal remover" effect that kills everything in the "center" (including the centered-bass) and it kills any stereo effect (left & right would be identical).

I thought the same thing and plugged the KH to different devices but only have the weird sound on the PC the old PC with the same 1220 chip had the same problem .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8BJ_HZiXrg&ab_channel=WirPackenAusHardware minute 2.28 exactly such a sound I have as in the video the onboard audio . That's what I mean by like someone is singing / talking through the almost closed fist .especially in films where people are talking, this is extreme. This effect I have only on the pc even if all EQ are off . Therefore I have me yes gewannt to you because of recommendations help etc.

 

[ZolaIII]

Even good old Sonata HD Pro (dongle DAC) would be more than enough for up to 64~80 Ohm's can's or as line out and has much better clean drivers than either Creative or Realtek costing 45$ (approximately).

 

[Psypuuh]

@Psypuuh I ment classic IR remote control.
There are people who want; LDAC, EQ-DSP, Dolby support, physically rotary volume controls, tactile buttons, MQA... shape and colour among other things.
And you can not have it all however you can get a good sound quality and see what you need from mentioned (and not mentioned) and purchase accordingly.

For me is only important: Good sound, not too expensive therefore 300 EUR, and no giant power consumption because the PC already consumes enough. 230-700w xD. Also for you :

. Minute 2.28 that you know what I mean by singing through my fist. In movies, when talking is especially bad as recorded from the cinema. xD

 

[Psypuuh]

Even good old Sonata HD Pro (dongle DAC) would be more than enough for up to 64~80 Ohm's can's or as line out and has much better clean drivers than either Creative or Realtek costing 45$ (approximately).

Not available through our amazon .

 

[ZolaIII]

Psypuuh all the difference is EMI rejection and how good it's authended. The switch PSU unit is dirty power source and emits a lot of lo frequency hum from power grid which is very hard to block (almost impossible). Good self stand desktop DAC's have separate power line's and filters on them (so that EMI doesn't come in neither from power or interface [USB]).
As you have Toslink out on motherboard it's best to skip USB entirely (if you really can't live without DSD native support or MQA then optical is perfectly fine [or otherwise you will have to use USB and ASIO]).

 

[ZolaIII]

Not available through our amazon .

You have their official Aliexpress store tho both delivery and shipping back in case of problems is hard this day's.

 

[Psypuuh]

Good standalone desktop DACs have separate power lines and filters

Psypuuh all the difference is EMI rejection and how good it's authended. The switch PSU unit is dirty power source and emits a lot of lo frequency hum from power grid which is very hard to block (almost impossible). Good self stand desktop DAC's have separate power line's and filters on them (so that EMI doesn't come in neither from power or interface [USB]).
As you have Toslink out on motherboard it's best to skip USB entirely (if you really can't live without DSD native support or MQA then optical is perfectly fine [or otherwise you will have to use USB and ASIO).

Good standalone desktop DACs have separate power lines and filters. And those would be....... for example ? I know here no longer continue thought here to find a quick solution laugh. I can little English and the translator can hardly or nothing to start with your technical terms which makes it extremely difficult for me to understand what you want to tell me. So what would you recommend me? Based on what I have written here, and with which I have the next few years peace? The others seem to have disengaged ^^ . Sorry if that comes across evil is nice meant ^^.

 

[ZolaIII]

I don't know what's your native language while I don't speak much German understanding the YouTube clip whosent problem for me.
A separate power input plug and AC/DC convertor for It. EMI is electro magnetic interface.
Long lasting and that you ware already satisfied with it I recommend G6 and if you can get a price slash even better and use it as explained (Toslinks optical IO input and phone charger as power input).

 

[Psypuuh]

I don't know what's your native language while I don't speak much German understanding the YouTube clip whosent problem for me.
A separate power input plug and AC/DC convertor for It. EMI is electro magnetic interface.
Long lasting and that you ware already satisfied with it I recommend G6 and if you can get a price slash even better and use it as explained (Toslinks optical IO and phone charger as power input).

My mother language is German . The G6 will cost here 124 EUR (135USD).So the G6 is preferable to the AE9 because of the pc power supply interference? What about the Fiio K5 Pro, which sounded as I, the here had just as good as the g6 and has its own power source and optical input just less settings what I liked the g6 better, but if the k5 is better from the chips etc would he then not preferable to the? Sorry for the many questions only I'm looking for 3 months and everywhere is something different one says good the other ne etc etc.. From the Schiit Stack I have heard only good but unfortunately I get the only over the us store and that costs extra and I have no warranty if something is with the devices. And the Topping stack said he would not be good for headphones with low ohm. I am very exhausted on the subject and want to finally have an end laughing

 

[ZolaIII]

@Psypuuh it's best if you can cut the problem in root. EMI doesn't transmit trough optical and there is no ground lops. CS43131 has a leading design EMI rejection claimed rate (100 dB).
As much as I hate Creative (really like only couple of their earphones) as we have long history for their lack of costumer support and bad drivers (bean there from their golden age Audigy 2 ZS Platinum and beginning of HiFi era SB 16 Gold) they provide a long lasting driver support and work for a long time so I wouldn't even consider FiiO (which again has some good IEM's).

 

[ZolaIII]

A really good Topping combo would be EX5 but that's 400$ or even more and with slim warenty. You won't get Dolby on any ChiFi and you don't really need (signal to noise ratio on really lo mV output and lo self impedance of course) neither stelar lo impedance performance (just avoid such hedaphones to start with) nor balanced outputs. Embedded EQ would be nice like on RME ADI-2 but that's really expensive and G6 actually does have one also (not great nor that user friendly or accessible but there [actually the DSP in it is great but you don't have much use of it]). AE-9 has multichannel support, better (wider) Dolby support trough analog outputs and Dolby digital hardware encoder (but that's more for content creation and surround setups) it won't really sound better (it might even sound worse thanks to some not so great choices such as mentioned HDMI connection).

 

[MCH]

My mother language is German . The G6 will cost here 124 EUR (135USD).So the G6 is preferable to the AE9 because of the pc power supply interference? What about the Fiio K5 Pro, which sounded as I, the here had just as good as the g6 and has its own power source and optical input just less settings what I liked the g6 better, but if the k5 is better from the chips etc would he then not preferable to the? Sorry for the many questions only I'm looking for 3 months and everywhere is something different one says good the other ne etc etc.. From the Schiit Stack I have heard only good but unfortunately I get the only over the us store and that costs extra and I have no warranty if something is with the devices. And the Topping stack said he would not be good for headphones with low ohm. I am very exhausted on the subject and want to finally have an end laughing

If you are in germany you can find a few G6 for 80 eur in ebaykleineanzeige

 

[Psypuuh]

A really good Topping combo would be EX5 but that's 400$ or even more and with slim warenty. You won't get Dolby on any ChiFi and you don't really need (signal to noise ratio on really lo mV output and lo self impedance of course) neither stelar lo impedance performance (just avoid such hedaphones to start with) nor balanced outputs. Embedded EQ would be nice like on RME ADI-2 but that's really expensive and G6 actually does have one also (not great nor that user friendly or accessible but there [actually the DSP in it is great but you don't have much use of it]). AE-9 has multichannel support, better (wider) Dolby support trough analog outputs and Dolby digital hardware encoder (but that's more for content creation and surround setups) it won't really sound better (it might even sound worse thanks to some not so great choices such as mentioned HDMI connection).

Give me 5 min must translate all ;D

 

[Psypuuh]

A really good Topping combo would be EX5 but that's 400$ or even more and with slim warenty. You won't get Dolby on any ChiFi and you don't really need (signal to noise ratio on really lo mV output and lo self impedance of course) neither stelar lo impedance performance (just avoid such hedaphones to start with) nor balanced outputs. Embedded EQ would be nice like on RME ADI-2 but that's really expensive and G6 actually does have one also (not great nor that user friendly or accessible but there [actually the DSP in it is great but you don't have much use of it]). AE-9 has multichannel support, better (wider) Dolby support trough analog outputs and Dolby digital hardware encoder (but that's more for content creation and surround setups) it won't really sound better (it might even sound worse thanks to some not so great choices such as mentioned HDMI connection).

I can also solve the problem with the hdmi in this way. I have a soundbar under my monitor that I can connect to the ae9 via optic cable and then connect the headphones to the soundbar. That would solve the problem ^^. I have a 9.1 sourount system which I could also hang on the optical but then think the neighbors here breaks out a war when I play ego shooter xD

 

[Psypuuh]

If you are in germany you can find a few G6 for 80 eur in ebaykleineanzeige

No more guarantees and it would be a coin toss if it works completely or not.

 

[ZolaIII]

@Psypuuh then go for AE-9 (G6 has both I/O line out combo analog/optical trough 3.5 mm but it's only stereo) and what ever you choose to buy use it's own hedaphone amplifier and analog hedaphone line out don't switch it to something as horrible as soundbar.

 

[Psypuuh]

@Psypuuh then go for AE-9 (G6 has both I/O line out combo analog/optical trough 3.5 mm but it's only stereo) and what ever you choose to buy use it's own hedaphone amplifier and analog hedaphone line out don't switch it to something as horrible as soundbar.

Any idea what I can use for this?

 

[ZolaIII]

For hedaphones? Use hedaphone output either on SB or DAC/amp that you buy.
Now when mentioned older EVGA audio PCI-E card's had a great ADC's and not bad DAC's along with surround output so you may want to see what can you find from them and at what price (more so as you are in Germany).

 

[Psypuuh]

But I think with the ae9, for example, it sucks because of the hdmi. Confused. You mean the EVGA NU Audio Pro 7.1, 712-P1-AN21-KR, 7.1 Surround, Lifelike Audio