Sure, but most people aren't going to care about putting TOTL SOTA amps on all of the bed layer channels; human acoustic sensitivity is strongest on-axis from the front, you can spend an extra couple thousand to use the best amps on your rear and surround channels but you almost certainly would be better off spending that money on a DAC/DSP/Speakers.
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Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!
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Sure, but most people aren't going to care about putting TOTL SOTA amps on all of the bed layer channels; human acoustic sensitivity is strongest on-axis from the front, you can spend an extra couple thousand to use the best amps on your rear and surround channels but you almost certainly would be better off spending that money on a DAC/DSP/Speakers.
I wish you had an option like this
VU Panel Meter Analog Amplifier Audio Power Level Indicator Backlight DB Table | eBay
Pointer length: 30 ±1mm from the needle end to the shaft. Pointer width: 0.45 ± 0.05 mm. Use a resistor to limit the current that protects the LED. Backlight: Blue light, 3 LEDs in parallel (3.0-3.3V 60mA).
www.ebay.co.uk
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My point was more specifically related to Auro and the signals that is sent to the surrounds in the bed llayer.
For one of my theaters I'm using BMRs for the 5 beds , coupled with with their low sensitivity and I have no problem using these amps that way as their price isn't TOL to me.
I'm not saying that this is other's need, but I believe there is one.
5x BMRs, my jealously knows no boundsMy point was more specifically related to Auro and the signals that is sent to the surrounds in the bed llayer.
For one of my theaters I'm using BMRs for the 5 beds , coupled with with their low sensitivity and I have no problem using these amps that way as their price isn't TOL to me.
, my long term plan is to eventually make BMR clones with augmented parts but that's like 10 years in the future if ever.I wish you had an option like this
VU Panel Meter Analog Amplifier Audio Power Level Indicator Backlight DB Table | eBay
Pointer length: 30 ±1mm from the needle end to the shaft. Pointer width: 0.45 ± 0.05 mm. Use a resistor to limit the current that protects the LED. Backlight: Blue light, 3 LEDs in parallel (3.0-3.3V 60mA).www.ebay.co.uk
I'm not against having various screens and indicators on amps, but can we all please agree that using blue and green spectrum is awful because it is overly indexed by human perception (i.e. it will appear to 'glare' more) and isn't good for sleep cycles? What's wrong with amber?
Yes. I understand why pro amps use that color, but I have put tape over mine to dim them.5x BMRs, my jealously knows no bounds
I'm not against having various screens and indicators on amps, but can we all please agree that using blue and green spectrum is awful because it is overly indexed by human perception (i.e. it will appear to 'glare' more) and isn't good for sleep cycles? What's wrong with amber?
Also the blue standy lights on the crown amp will literally light up your entire room with blue light....they are obnoxiously bright...
I'm sure glad they are that bright. I use one in my church's sound system. It sits behind the organist, and I can see it from the balcony. If I hear something untowards, a quick glance confirms operation of the amp, at least. But that isn't my living room.
(For me, the VU meter I'd like to see is a big d'arsonval mechanical meter for each channel, notwithstanding that provides nothing useful, plus clipping lights, which do. But those meters are no longer available, it seems, and even if they were would probably double the price of the amp all by themselves. I can live without them.)
Rick "requirements for commercial amps are different" Denney
See my post above. Less than £30 in retail.
Yup, totally get why they are that color and bright. Perfect for quick check in the pro world.
Although not sure why the standby blue flashing light is that bright.....
Last off topic about this, but I used electrical tape to cover up the majority of it, they still unfortunately flash inside the case and you can see them lighting up, not an issue to wake me up anymore after I put a AC infinity on top of them, but they were very annoying. I like the green signal strength lights. I think that brightness is fine. I would prefer a different color, but the brightness is ok.
Buckeye asked me to makes some photos of the clip LEDs, which @Rick Sykora had described in another thread and made for me. He sent them to be included in the build, for which I am grateful.
His trick is slick. He sandwiches LEDs through two pieces of stick-on Velcro, and sticks it down to the inside of the case with the LED's poking through a hole in the half of the Velcro that is stuck down. To remove, one peels off the top layer of Velcro and the LEDs can just be pulled out. I wish I'd thought of that!
Here's a photo of the interior of the Buckeye NC502MP in the small stereo case:
The front is to the right. Lower right is the power LED. The clip LEDs are operated by the small wires coming out of the main connector at top center in the photo.
Looking from the upper right in the photo above, here's the space between the module and the front panel, showing where the clipping LED's are installed:
The small wires are in heat-shrink coming straight down from the Velcro. Front panel is at left.
Here's where the wires are attached in the main connector:
And, for the part most will care about, here's where the clipping LEDs are currently installed. They protrude from the bottom vents, so they are not normally visible from the front, but presumably will be if they light up. Hint: With this arrangement, playing the system really loud might rest the amp on its top (with space!), which might actually help with cooling, too, since the heat-radiating surface is along the bottom of the module. This is the bottom, with the front at left.
After getting used to the amp and being sure of my arrangement, I will probably drill a couple of holes in the front panel right above there these stick down.
Rick "not time yet to try it out" Denney
His trick is slick. He sandwiches LEDs through two pieces of stick-on Velcro, and sticks it down to the inside of the case with the LED's poking through a hole in the half of the Velcro that is stuck down. To remove, one peels off the top layer of Velcro and the LEDs can just be pulled out. I wish I'd thought of that!
Here's a photo of the interior of the Buckeye NC502MP in the small stereo case:
The front is to the right. Lower right is the power LED. The clip LEDs are operated by the small wires coming out of the main connector at top center in the photo.
Looking from the upper right in the photo above, here's the space between the module and the front panel, showing where the clipping LED's are installed:
The small wires are in heat-shrink coming straight down from the Velcro. Front panel is at left.
Here's where the wires are attached in the main connector:
And, for the part most will care about, here's where the clipping LEDs are currently installed. They protrude from the bottom vents, so they are not normally visible from the front, but presumably will be if they light up. Hint: With this arrangement, playing the system really loud might rest the amp on its top (with space!), which might actually help with cooling, too, since the heat-radiating surface is along the bottom of the module. This is the bottom, with the front at left.
After getting used to the amp and being sure of my arrangement, I will probably drill a couple of holes in the front panel right above there these stick down.
Rick "not time yet to try it out" Denney
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Thank you!
So that's the route I was thinking of going. The indicators wouldn't be in plain site but would be visible when they go off
So that's the route I was thinking of going. The indicators wouldn't be in plain site but would be visible when they go off
Once clipping lights are installed Buckeye NC502MP customers will suddenly start experiencing an unexplained increase in hearing loss or Amazon will enjoy huge sales in gun range earmuffs. None of these audio buffs can resist trying to light them up. Hopefully, those living in apartments will have better judgement?
Speaker manufacturers better stock up on replacement drivers, too.Once clipping lights are installed Buckeye NC502MP customers will suddenly start experiencing an unexplained increase in hearing loss or Amazon will enjoy huge sales in gun range earmuffs. None of these audio buffs can resist trying to light them up. Hopefully, those living in apartments will have better judgement?
Rick "hoping to never see those lights flicker" Denney
sorry about the delayed response. While I know he made a lot of big stuff early on I think he's versatile. I would not be shy about reaching out to him. If he can't do it he may have a recommendation or two for people who can. Or, if you want to send me a description of what you are looking for and I will be happy to contact him.
Once clipping lights are installed Buckeye NC502MP customers will suddenly start experiencing an unexplained increase in hearing loss or Amazon will enjoy huge sales in gun range earmuffs. None of these audio buffs can resist trying to light them up. Hopefully, those living in apartments will have better judgement?
While not a true functional test, if the speaker outputs are not connected to the amp, the LEDs will flash during power up and down. This is one way to be sure the circuit is operational without trying to drive the amp to clipping.
Ofc, the other way would be to use a dummy load. While a dummy load will save your hearing, it needs to be done carefully too. Running dummy loads has other potential dangers and should not be done casually.
Rick
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I can confirm the LED's blinked during my initial power on test (which I always do with no speakers or input connected, ya know, just in case)
I have a kilowatt dummy load, but it’s 50 ohms—not really suitable. The resistor is buried in a paint can filled with transformer oil. Good for about ten seconds at a kilowatt.
Rick “who will depend on the self test
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Walter
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Yes, but that does nothing to answer the burning question of "just how loud can this go without clipping?" Inquiring minds want to know!
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