Understand that , still I would like to have opinions from experts (I’m not) whether I should upgrade the amp to something which can go down to 2 ohms.If you already bought it ... well, you don't win anything with external opinions ... do the test ... and then let us know if it worked.
First, congratulations! ... hard and good work.
I think you're doing the right thing, working in acoustics / dsp more than spend in expensive and fancy electronics.
Why 110Hz? i think is really high ... i mean, sending under 110 to subwoofer is really high, those frequencies are easily addressable. And maybe there's not much difference between 110 and up with 80 and up as a load to the Rotel amplifier.
Only some constructive opinions.
Ultimately the best option is to add a sub, as these are marketed as bookshelves. I think KEF shelved the bass on purpose. They were able to get 40 Hz as a -6 dB point out of a bookshelf which is impressive vs. the competition even if the bass gently declines below 120 Hz. The issue if you try to shelve this to get flat bass response is the distortion. Unfortunately, this was an earlier Amir review before he did the 86 and 96 dB distortion vs. frequency graphs. I think what you would find is that the distortion going balistic aligns with where the slow roll off starts. Your proposal to bump the bass up you get flat response ultimately limits the volume at which the speaker can be played. Who needs a speaker which is flat to 40 Hz but bottoms out the woofer if played louder than 80 dB at their listening position? Each side has a single 5" woofer, so there are going to be limits to how much air can be moved. Either enjoy that this is a bookshelf which does anything at all in the second octave (40-80 Hz) or buy a sub and use bass management to relieve that tiny woofer of this duty.With a boost of +2dB ~+3dB using the Low shelf filter the speaker become more correct imho.., my guess the weak slope from R series is what people hear as ''dull'', it's also represented in measurements the aggresive slope in sub-bass.
R3 with 5" woofers? Maybe you're talking about LS50?Ultimately the best option is to add a sub, as these are marketed as bookshelves. I think KEF shelved the bass on purpose. They were able to get 40 Hz as a -6 dB point out of a bookshelf which is impressive vs. the competition even if the bass gently declines below 120 Hz. The issue if you try to shelve this to get flat bass response is the distortion. Unfortunately, this was an earlier Amir review before he did the 86 and 96 dB distortion vs. frequency graphs. I think what you would find is that the distortion going balistic aligns with where the slow roll off starts. Your proposal to bump the bass up you get flat response ultimately limits the volume at which the speaker can be played. Who needs a speaker which is flat to 40 Hz but bottoms out the woofer if played louder than 80 dB at their listening position? Each side has a single 5" woofer, so there are going to be limits to how much air can be moved. Either enjoy that this is a bookshelf which does anything at all in the second octave (40-80 Hz) or buy a sub and use bass management to relieve that tiny woofer of this duty.
The thing is the R3 with 6.5'' can go up to 105dB @ 1m, there is plenty of room for playing with the slope.Ultimately the best option is to add a sub, as these are marketed as bookshelves. I think KEF shelved the bass on purpose. They were able to get 40 Hz as a -6 dB point out of a bookshelf which is impressive vs. the competition even if the bass gently declines below 120 Hz. The issue if you try to shelve this to get flat bass response is the distortion. Unfortunately, this was an earlier Amir review before he did the 86 and 96 dB distortion vs. frequency graphs. I think what you would find is that the distortion going balistic aligns with where the slow roll off starts. Your proposal to bump the bass up you get flat response ultimately limits the volume at which the speaker can be played. Who needs a speaker which is flat to 40 Hz but bottoms out the woofer if played louder than 80 dB at their listening position? Each side has a single 5" woofer, so there are going to be limits to how much air can be moved. Either enjoy that this is a bookshelf which does anything at all in the second octave (40-80 Hz) or buy a sub and use bass management to relieve that tiny woofer of this duty.
I would really advise you to go full R series, meaning to use the matching center channel for R3 which is R2C, because for movie watching the center channel is the most important, it carries ALL dialogues and the full weight of the soundtrack, it’s the most active speaker during the whole movie.I was thinking about going with Kef R3 and Kef Q650c for the center channel. How do you think those would be? Right now, I'm only wanting to go with the left, right, and center speakers and maybe get more later depending on the performance of the three.
I want a strong performance from the subs, but don't want to be overwhelmed or rattled too much. For three speakers would I still need two subs or one that's better?
I was thinking about going with Kef R3 and Kef Q650c for the center channel. How do you think those would be? Right now, I'm only wanting to go with the left, right, and center speakers and maybe get more later depending on the performance of the three.
I want a strong performance from the subs, but don't want to be overwhelmed or rattled too much. For three speakers would I still need two subs or one that's better?
2 subs will indeed give you smoother bass response across multiple listening seats, or along the listenig room, but only when properly setup by means of acoustics measurements and DSP. If the idea is just to throw 2 subs, connect them and start playing music, then just save the money.I have one and it works really good, but people with more experience / knowledge says that 2 subs brings a more uniform bass. You can buy one and later try other using the return option (or buy 2 and return 1) if you don't feel it as necessary.
Experience is everything in audio, your room, your rules.
2 subs will indeed give you smoother bass response across multiple listening seats, or along the listenig room, but only when properly setup by means of acoustics measurements and DSP. If the idea is just to throw 2 subs, connect them and start playing music, then just save the money.
i read somewhere here that that 1500usd/piece could of been a mistake somehere in the chain, and it should be ~1500+ for a pair, but who knows...The KEF R3 are good speakers...and these are nice measurements. It is basically like adding a small woofer to a LS50, taking a load off the co-axial package. I auditioned some at a store and really liked them...but here in Japan they are priced at over $3000USD for a pair (I do not know why KEF does that), and unfortunately for the R3 it is about the same price as the LS50 Metas+KC-62. With a good cross-over/integration for the latter, there is no competition at the same price point.
What is KEF doing with this crazy pricing? Maybe they are trying to convince people in Japan to buy a sub? Subs haven't been particularly popular here in the past, partly owing to smaller/crowded living spaces, but the KC-62 might be the one to change things...
$1700 /pair “on sale” at Best Buy USA, listed as $2200 normally according to Best Buyi read somewhere here that that 1500usd/piece could of been a mistake somehere in the chain, and it should be ~1500+ for a pair, but who knows...
here in europe i see R3 going for 1200 eur/ pair, R7 ~ 2500eur/ pair.
maybe buying from overseas?
Those were the Black Friday prices. Closer to 1600/3200 EUR otherwise.i read somewhere here that that 1500usd/piece could of been a mistake somehere in the chain, and it should be ~1500+ for a pair, but who knows...
here in europe i see R3 going for 1200 eur/ pair, R7 ~ 2500eur/ pair.
maybe buying from overseas?